Tag Archives: Iain Small

Quoth the Raven – Nevermore

Posted on December 9, 2020 by Simon Richardson

Iain Small and Dave MacLeod succeeded on an outstanding new route on December 7, when they made the first ascent of Nevermore (VIII,8) on Number Five Gully Buttress on the Ben. The great soaring overhanging corner on the right side … Continue reading →

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Blackmount Wall

Posted on February 18, 2019 by Simon Richardson

The heavy snowfall at the end of January fell without any wind and coated the Scottish mountains with a uniform layer of powder snow. This was a boon for skiers, but for classic winter climbing it needed to consolidate a … Continue reading →

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Creag Meagaidh Diary

Posted on March 19, 2018 by Simon Richardson

It’s been a busy couple of weeks on Creag Meagaidh’s Pinnacle Buttress, which has probably been in it’s best condition since winter 2005: February 24: Iain Small and Andy Inglis climb Paradise Lost (VII,8), a new route up the centre … Continue reading →

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En Garde!

Posted on January 14, 2018 by Simon Richardson

I was rather surprised to hear that Murdoch Jamieson and Iain Small climbed The Duel (IX,9) on Stob Coire nan Lochan before Christmas (December 16) and found it rather testing. Now The Duel is a hard route for sure, but … Continue reading →

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Thin Ice Special

Posted on April 1, 2017 by Simon Richardson

Conditions change quickly in late March. The day after our ascent of Failure Is Not An Option on the North Wall of Carn Dearg, the temperature was warmer and Iain Small and I had to look higher up on Ben … Continue reading →

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Failure Is Not An Option

Posted on March 31, 2017 by Simon Richardson

A curious result of this year’s difficult conditions was the temporary formation of ice at low levels on Ben Nevis during the third week in March. The icefalls below Carn Dearg became remarkably icy. These don’t normally merit much notice, … Continue reading →

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When The Icicles Don’t Hang Straight

Posted on March 15, 2017 by Simon Richardson

So here I am, belayed halfway up Church Door Buttress on Bidean nan Bian wondering why the icicles aren’t hanging straight. It is Tuesday March 7 and it’s gently snowing. Iain Small is above me climbing a vertical ice-filled corner … Continue reading →

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The Shape Of Things To Come

Posted on March 10, 2017 by Simon Richardson

I had the privilege of accompanying Iain Small on a journey up the North Wall of Carn Dearg on March 2. This excellent but unfrequented cliff is situated left of The Shroud on Ben Nevis. Steep and rocky and lying … Continue reading →

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Slovenian Exchange

Posted on March 9, 2017 by Simon Richardson

From February 12 to 19, eight Slovenian climbers visited Scotland and teamed up with British climbers to sample the ‘delights’ of Scottish winter. They caught the end of the February cold snap and enjoyed excellent mixed climbing for the first … Continue reading →

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Church Door Buttress Topo

Posted on February 22, 2017 by Simon Richardson

Every now and then something pops into my mailbox for scottishwinter.com that is both completely unexpected and winter climbing gold dust. The attached topo of Church Door Buttress on Bidean nan Bian is a case in point. Malcolm Bass provides … Continue reading →

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