Tag Archives: Iain Small

Thin Ice Special

Conditions change quickly in late March. The day after our ascent of Failure Is Not An Option on the North Wall of Carn Dearg, the temperature was warmer and Iain Small and I had to look higher up on Ben … Continue reading

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Failure Is Not An Option

A curious result of this year’s difficult conditions was the temporary formation of ice at low levels on Ben Nevis during the third week in March. The icefalls below Carn Dearg became remarkably icy. These don’t normally merit much notice, … Continue reading

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When The Icicles Don’t Hang Straight

So here I am, belayed halfway up Church Door Buttress on Bidean nan Bian wondering why the icicles aren’t hanging straight. It is Tuesday March 7 and it’s gently snowing. Iain Small is above me climbing a vertical ice-filled corner … Continue reading

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The Shape Of Things To Come

I had the privilege of accompanying Iain Small on a journey up the North Wall of Carn Dearg on March 2. This excellent but unfrequented cliff is situated left of The Shroud on Ben Nevis. Steep and rocky and lying … Continue reading

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Slovenian Exchange

From February 12 to 19, eight Slovenian climbers visited Scotland and teamed up with British climbers to sample the ‘delights’ of Scottish winter. They caught the end of the February cold snap and enjoyed excellent mixed climbing for the first … Continue reading

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Church Door Buttress Topo

Every now and then something pops into my mailbox for scottishwinter.com that is both completely unexpected and winter climbing gold dust. The attached topo of Church Door Buttress on Bidean nan Bian is a case in point. Malcolm Bass provides … Continue reading

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The Prentice Pillar

On January 14, Iain Small and Helen Rennard made an excellent addition to Church Door Buttress in Glen Coe. They climbed the obvious fault on the lower front (west) face, just right of last season’s route Hoargasm (VII,8) climbed by … Continue reading

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Gates of Paradise

On February 10, Iain Small and Murdoch Jamieson climbed one of the most spectacular new routes of the season when they made the first ascent of Gates of Paradise (VIII,8) on Church Door Buttress on Stob Core nam Beith. “It … Continue reading

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Tomahawk Crack – Third Ascent

Iain Small and Murdoch Jamieson made the third ascent of Tomahawk Crack (VIII,9) on Ben Nevis on February 3. “It had some pretty technical climbing which was hard work to protect as everything was a bit icy,” Iain told me. … Continue reading

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Reach For The Sky – Probable Second Ascent

Iain Small and Andy Inglis set out to make an early repeat of Snoopy (VII,7) on Fuar Tholl’s Mainreachan Buttress on January 17, but they found insufficient ice on the lower section of the route. Instead they made the probable … Continue reading

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