Category Archives: New Routes

High and Steep on The Ben

Friday night’s snowfall fell with little wind and left a thick coat of snow on Ben Nevis. It snowed continuously on Saturday so the mountain now looks very wintry. On the classic routes, heavy snow over bare terrain made for … Continue reading

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Skye Winter Festival Report

The seventh Skye Winter Festival was another great success. A short bout of winter at the beginning of the two-week event saw five new routes before the meet resorted to more traditional Cuillin games for the next ten days. Local … Continue reading

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Globetrotting in Strathfarrar

After an abortive trip up Ben Wyvis a week ago, John Mackenzie and Andrew James visited the North-East Face of Sgurr na Muice in Strathfarrar on January 29. The result of their efforts was the first ascent of the 280m … Continue reading

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Snow At Last!

Saturday’s (January 28) snowfall brought many of the higher cliffs into winter condition at the weekend. Ben Nevis was busy with many of the Early Season favorites such as Gargoyle Wall, The Clanger, Cutlass and Sidewinder seeing ascents. Notable ascents … Continue reading

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Give and Take on Ben Nevis

We are going through a very unhelpful weather cycle at the moment where snowfalls are followed by rapid thaws and the resulting dry conditions are locked by high pressure systems for days. We desperately need significant snowfall and a rapid … Continue reading

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The Prentice Pillar

On January 14, Iain Small and Helen Rennard made an excellent addition to Church Door Buttress in Glen Coe. They climbed the obvious fault on the lower front (west) face, just right of last season’s route Hoargasm (VII,8) climbed by … Continue reading

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Clockwork Orange

Southern Highlands aficionado Stuart McFarlane is nearing the end of his quest to climb all the Grade V routes in the Southern Highlands. “After the strong north-westerlies had been blowing hard for a few days, I arranged to go climbing … Continue reading

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Creagan Cha-no Additions

“We had a cracking day out on Creagan Cha-no on Thursday (January 5),” Jon (Nettle) Foden writes. “Although conditions were thin on the trade routes, by sticking to the shady side of the buttresses Ivor McCourt and I managed to … Continue reading

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Topsy-Turvy

The topsy-turvy season continues. A brief thaw on January 3 followed by a dry cold snap was not the best recipe for good winter climbing. The Scottish mountains are unusually dry at the moment and the freeze thaws should be … Continue reading

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Cat and Mouse

The cat and mouse game of finding good winter climbing conditions continues. The forecast icy blast on New Years Day promised much for January 2, but the snowfall was significantly less than predicted and mainly limited to the Cairngorms and … Continue reading

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