Category Archives: New Routes

Butterknife First Winter Ascent

After their inspirational first ascent of Sapiens on Lost Valley Buttress on Tuesday, Tim Miller and Jamie Skelton are on a roll. On Thursday (February 20) they took the ferry across to Ardgour and made the first winter ascent of … Continue reading

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Outstanding New Route in Glen Coe

In the late 1980s Rab Anderson was the driving force behind a group of mainly Edinburgh based climbers that popularised mixed climbing on the Northern Corries and Glen Coe. Routes like Deep Throat and Hoarmaster in Coire an Lochain were … Continue reading

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Hairy Maclarey

Alan Halewood and Dave Anderson had a good exploratory day on February 13 when they added the first ever route to Creag Mholach (NN 35168 74631) on the west side of Stob Coire Sgriodain above Loch Treig in the Central … Continue reading

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All Go on Black Buttress

Way back in October 1998 I was invited to attend the opening of the North Face Car Park At Torlundy, just north of Fort William. It seems ancient history now, but before the North Face Car Park, most climbers accessed … Continue reading

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Icy on Wyvis

Steven Andrews and Alex Reid made a possible first ascent yesterday (February 14) on Creag Coire na Feola on Ben Wyvis. Sideshow (V,6) takes the steep icefall and easier angled buttress immediately to the right of the main crag. There … Continue reading

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January Scottish Winter Diary

It’s been a tough January in the Scottish mountains with almost non-stop winds and long periods of thaw. Conditions on the mountains have changed day by day and have often been completely different from east to west. Here is a … Continue reading

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Table Rib

Iain Young and John Higham pulled off a superbly-timed piece of exploratory winter mountaineering yesterday (January 28) when they made the first winter ascent of Table Rib (III,4) on Cul Mor. Iain takes up the story: “In the last few … Continue reading

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The Arc of Profanity

While making the second ascent of The Edge of Profanity in November, Dave Brookes and Jules Harris noted that there was further new route potential on the Left-Hand Buttress of Creagan Cha-no on Cairn Gorm. On January 18 they returned … Continue reading

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More on Cruachan

It’s been a very lean January so far, but following their first ascent of One of Nine (IV,5) on Ben Cruachan in November, Southern Highlands pioneers Stuart MacFarlane and Robin Clothier added another new route to Noe Buttress on January … Continue reading

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Timing Is Everything

There is an attractive single pitch crag sitting under Cnap Coire na Spreidhe on Cairn Gorm. It was first explored in summer 2012 by Rik Higham, Raphael Bleakley and Gwilym Lynn who climbed the prominent line of Nethy Crack (VS … Continue reading

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