Category Archives: New Routes

Winter Starts

Winter in the Scottish Highlands started in late October when a cold north-westerly deposited a layer of snow on the West. Conditions were typically early season, with the turf not fully frozen, and the best climbing conditions were found in … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

The Chancel First Winter Ascent

Guy Robertson and Andy Inglis pulled off one of the finest climbs of the season on March 18 when they made a first winter ascent based on The Chancel on Beinn a’Bhuird. This five pitch E1 on the West Face … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , | Comments Off on The Chancel First Winter Ascent

Moonpig on Aonach Mor

Strong winds and frequent snowfall have resulted some very dangerous snow conditions recently, especially on the West. On March 8, Graham Wyllie and Cam Bevan visited Coire an Lochain on Aonach Mor. Conditions were tricky, but careful route choice meant … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , | Comments Off on Moonpig on Aonach Mor

Neverthought Arête

Without question, it has been a dismal Scottish winter season. The warm weather through most of the peak winter climbing period in February upset many people’s dreams, and the tragic loss of Andy Nisbet and Steve Perry coupled with the … Continue reading

Posted in Commentary, New Routes | Tagged , , | Comments Off on Neverthought Arête

Heavy Flak on Beinn Eighe

Murdoch Jamieson and Uisdean Hawthorn pulled of a notable first winter ascent when they climbed Heavy Flak on Beinn Eighe on February 2. This summer E1 on the Eastern Ramparts was first climbed by Geoff Cohen and Murray Hamilton in … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , | Comments Off on Heavy Flak on Beinn Eighe

Blackmount Wall

The heavy snowfall at the end of January fell without any wind and coated the Scottish mountains with a uniform layer of powder snow. This was a boon for skiers, but for classic winter climbing it needed to consolidate a … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , | Comments Off on Blackmount Wall

Far East Vishnu

On January 30, Murdoch Jamieson and Guy Robertson added an excellent winter-only line on the Far East Wall of Beinn Eighe. One Man’s Mountain takes the obvious left-facing corner right of Vishnu. “Guy had tried it many years ago with Pete … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , | Comments Off on Far East Vishnu

Skye Twin Pack for Sakano and Bishop

Masa Sakano and Tom Bishop had two excellent days climbing on Skye at the end of last week, which resulted in the ascent of an unclimbed gully in Coire Scamadal and a new Direct Start to the rarely climbed Franklands’s … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , , | Comments Off on Skye Twin Pack for Sakano and Bishop

A Little Line on Nevis

The title of this post comes from an email that Toby Archer sent to me last week regarding a possible new line on the left wall of Number Three Gully climbed on January 4 when conditions all over the Highlands … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , | Comments Off on A Little Line on Nevis

Hare Restorer in Corrie Fee

“Pamela Millar and I were out in Coire Fee yesterday (January 24)” Martin Holland writes. “We ended up high in the corrie and climbed a line starting below and right of The Comb and finishing to it’s right. There was … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , | Comments Off on Hare Restorer in Corrie Fee