Category Archives: New Routes

Recent New Routes

Away from the cutting edge it has been a relatively quiet season on the new routes front, but several good mid-grade routes have been climbed. Back in early December in Glen Coe, Jack Morris and Neil Kerr found Last Resort … Continue reading

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Busy Season at the Cutting Edge

The following ascents were initially reported on Instagram but unfortunately, I do not have first-hand details. All are significant ascents and are listed here to maintain the historical record. 8 December, Lochnagar, Nihilist (IX,9)First winter ascent by Greg Boswell and … Continue reading

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Southern Highlands Twin Pack

On December 11 Dec, Stuart McFarlane, Di Gilbert and Rich Bentley visited Beinn a’ Chreachain in the Bridge of Orchy hills. Fuelled by stories of ‘unclimbed icicles’ by Erik Brunskill, I’d always meant to explore here,” Stuart told me. “Being … Continue reading

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Pollaidh Perfect

Iain Young and John Higham made a winter ascent of No.2 buttress on Stac Pollaidh via a variation of Original Route (an ancient summer Diff) on December 12. “It was a fabulous day out and our third attempt on the … Continue reading

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Base Jump Buttress

Nathan Adam, Huw Scott and Mike Lates made the first ascent of Base Jump Buttress (IV,5) in Coire na Banachdaich on Sgurr Dearg in the Cuillin in December 10. Nathan takes up the story: “Huw and I had a wee … Continue reading

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The Fear Factory

On form Greg Boswell succeeded on one of the most prized objectives on Ben Nevis on March 6 when he made the first ascent of The Fear Factory (WI6R), the prominent hanging icicle on the lower part of the Little Brenva … Continue reading

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An Ice Surprise

Dave Riley and Andy Harrison had an excellent day on Lurcher’s Crag on February 25. They climbed a continuous run of ice between Central and Diamond gullies up the highest part of the crag resulting in the 365m-long An Ice … Continue reading

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Far North Holibobs

Stuart McFarlane, Di Gilbert and Robin Clothier had a productive few days in the North-West last week.  On February 16, they walked into Beinn Dearg, hoping to escape Storm Dudley. The plan worked and they made the first ascent of … Continue reading

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The Last Crusade

Greg Boswell has just returned to Scotland after two months of high standard ice and mixed climbing in the Alps. He put his fitness to great effect on February 21 when he climbed a winter version of The Last Crusade … Continue reading

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All The World’s A Stage

On Sunday February 6, Forrest Templeton and I visited Glen Clova. It had been warm during the week, but we had a hunch that it was just cold enough to freeze the turf above 700m or so, and Corrie Farchal … Continue reading

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