Category Archives: New Routes

Meshuga

“It’s been that sort of winter, where you either climb steep rocky routes or, on the assumption that all easier routes have turf, you put up with mediocre conditions,” Andy Nisbet writes. “And if you’re looking for easier new routes, … Continue reading

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When The Icicles Don’t Hang Straight

So here I am, belayed halfway up Church Door Buttress on Bidean nan Bian wondering why the icicles aren’t hanging straight. It is Tuesday March 7 and it’s gently snowing. Iain Small is above me climbing a vertical ice-filled corner … Continue reading

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Cloudjumper

“Dave MacLeod and I headed up the Ben last Sunday (March 5),” Helen Rennard writes. “We had been thinking of climbing something up in Coire na Ciste and Dave had kindly offered to belay me on something (I tend to … Continue reading

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Salvation Ribs

On March 4, John Jackson and Martin Holland headed in to Beinn Alligin with a couple of teams to attempt the classic Grade IV ice gully of West Coast Boomer on Tom na Gruagaich. “John, Joanne McCandless and Graeme Crowder … Continue reading

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The Shape Of Things To Come

I had the privilege of accompanying Iain Small on a journey up the North Wall of Carn Dearg on March 2. This excellent but unfrequented cliff is situated left of The Shroud on Ben Nevis. Steep and rocky and lying … Continue reading

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Canopy on Blaven

Michael Barnard and John MacLeod made one of the finest first winter ascents this season when they ascended Canopy (VI,6), a Severe chimney-line on Blaven. The route was first climbed by Ian Clough and party in a productive Skye trip in 1968. Michael … Continue reading

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Assynt Exploration

The 2017 winter continues to be a challenging one. The rapidly varying conditions have not been particularly helpful for those seeking new routes, so I was delighted when Iain Young and John Higham made a good addition to the Assynt … Continue reading

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High and Steep on The Ben

Friday night’s snowfall fell with little wind and left a thick coat of snow on Ben Nevis. It snowed continuously on Saturday so the mountain now looks very wintry. On the classic routes, heavy snow over bare terrain made for … Continue reading

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Skye Winter Festival Report

The seventh Skye Winter Festival was another great success. A short bout of winter at the beginning of the two-week event saw five new routes before the meet resorted to more traditional Cuillin games for the next ten days. Local … Continue reading

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Globetrotting in Strathfarrar

After an abortive trip up Ben Wyvis a week ago, John Mackenzie and Andrew James visited the North-East Face of Sgurr na Muice in Strathfarrar on January 29. The result of their efforts was the first ascent of the 280m … Continue reading

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