Category Archives: New Routes

January Update

January has been disappointing month for Scottish winter climbers. The weather has been dominated by warm high pressure systems and any snowfall has quickly disappeared with sudden thaws. The dry air and associated wet bulb effect has allowed the remaining … Continue reading

Posted in Commentary, New Routes, Repeats | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Jacobite Buttress

Neil Adams, Nathan Adam and Garry Campbell made an excellent addition to Sgurr Ghiubhsachain’s Jacobite Buttress above Loch Shiel on Friday January 7. This newly developed cliff is described in Neil’s highly anticipated Winter Climbs West guidebook that will shortly … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , , | 3 Comments

Iron Man Ridge

It’s been an unsettled season so far, but Wednesday January 5 offered a possible opportunity to escape the recent gales and storms. The weather was clearing from the west, so at first glance, the Central Cairngorms was not a logical … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , | 1 Comment

Geologists’ Ridge

Iain Young and John Higham had a superb day on January 5 making the first ascent of Geologists’ Ridge (IV,4) on the 450m-high south -west face of Conival in the Northern Highlands. Iain and John have a strong track record … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , | 1 Comment

Juggling Crampons on The Jester

On December 9, Oliver Skeoch and Ryan Balharry made the first winter ascent of The Jester (V,7) on Stob Coire nan Lochan. This small but impressive pinnacle lies at the foot of Pinnacle Buttress and is well seen on the … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , | Comments Off on Juggling Crampons on The Jester

Princess Cut

During the first Coronavirus lockdown in spring 2020 when we were only allowed to venture away from our homes on foot or bike, Mark Robson discovered an unclimbed crag on Ben Wyvis. The 100m-high Diamond Buttress is situated on Glas … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , | Comments Off on Princess Cut

California Dreamin’

On November 27, James Milton and Robbie Hearns made the enterprising first winter ascent of California (IV,4) in Coire Druim na Staidhre on Sgurr nan Saighead in Kintail. This Severe is the only summer route in the corrie and was … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , | Comments Off on California Dreamin’

New Winter Season Finally Underway

It’s been a slow start to the Scottish winter season and most of November has been remarkably mild. There were a couple of short bursts of winter at the end of October when snowed up rock routes in the Northern … Continue reading

Posted in Commentary, New Routes | Tagged , , , | Comments Off on New Winter Season Finally Underway

2021 Winter Catch Up

Now that winter is over, and lockdown largely behind us, I have summarised activity from January 4 until the end of the season. The Cuillin: Big news from Skye was the first winter ascent of Mongoose Direct (VIII,8) on Sgurr … Continue reading

Posted in Commentary, New Routes, Repeats | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Comments Off on 2021 Winter Catch Up

Lockdown Catch Up

While Mainland Scotland is in full lockdown, I do not feel it is appropriate to report ongoing winter climbing activity on scottishwinter.com, so I’m using this post to catch up on recent weeks. The extended spell of cold and snowy … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes, Repeats | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 6 Comments