Category Archives: New Routes

Mid December Update

The first half of December was wild and windy, which rather limited activity. The Northern Corries were popular, and on Creagan Cha-no, the new mini guidebook prompted a flurry of activity filling in the remaining lines, which are mostly in … Continue reading

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Boswell and Robertson Continue To Forge Ahead

Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson kicked the winter season into higher gear with their ascent of The Forge on An Teallach on December 4. This astounding route, which takes a tenuous discontinuous crack-line up the middle of the awe-inspiring vertical … Continue reading

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November Cold Snap

After a very warm first half of November, the cold easterlies that set up in the middle of the month were good news for winter climbers. The big decision was whether to go east or west. Going west meant better … Continue reading

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New Mini Guidebook to Creagan Cha-no

Today, the Scottish Mountaineering Club published a mini-guide to the popular and easily accessible Creagan Cha-no on the east side of Cairn Gorm. This is the first guidebook published for the cliff and includes all routes climbed until the start … Continue reading

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The Edge of Profanity

Finding good early season winter climbing conditions can be a tricky business. The winter weather that started on the night of October 26 came in on strong north-westerlies depositing deep snow on eastern aspects and insulating the turf. The well-known … Continue reading

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New Winter Season Kicks Off In Style

Mike Lates and Stephan Wrede gave the new winter season a flying start on October 28 with a new route on The Cuillin. Tour de Force (VI,6) is situated on the Great Stone Shoot Face on Sgurr Thearlaich. The three-pitch … Continue reading

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Jenga KerPlunk Finish

On March 31, Pete Davies and Ross Cowie climbed Jenga (VI,7) on Sail Mhor in the Beinn Eighe massif and finished up KerPlunk (VII,7), a spectacular exit on the left wall. The deeply-cut gully of Jenga has an exciting history … Continue reading

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Catheter Corner

Forrest Templeton, Kevin Murphy and Matt Smith added an excellent three-pitch mixed route to the north-facing cliffs of The Scorrie in Glen Clova on March 31. “After yet another beastly easterly, I reckoned it may be worth a punt returning … Continue reading

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More Beinn Chuirn

Martin Holland revisited Coire na Saobhaidhe on Beinn Chuirn on March 30 with Sharon Tinsley and Ian McIntosh. “We climbed a couple of what I think are new lines,” Martin told me. “The first (Prospectors) was a very nice Grade … Continue reading

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Gryphon Grooves

A key piece of advice in Chasing the Ephemeral is take time to assess conditions at the base of the cliff before you start climbing. The ten minutes you spend at this point can be the most critical point of … Continue reading

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