Category Archives: New Routes

Thin Ice Special

The thin ice master at work. Iain Small about to start a 25m unprotected lead during the first ascent of a new VII,7 on Creag na Coire na Ciste on Ben Nevis. (Photo Simon Richardson) Conditions change quickly in late … Continue reading

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Failure Is Not An Option

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Ben Nevis Update

It’s been a difficult season, but as March progressed, good winter climbing was found on Ben Nevis. The problem this winter has been the lack of any base. Any snowfalls have quickly disappeared due to rapid thaws, but the Ben’s … Continue reading

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Meshuga

“It’s been that sort of winter, where you either climb steep rocky routes or, on the assumption that all easier routes have turf, you put up with mediocre conditions,” Andy Nisbet writes. “And if you’re looking for easier new routes, … Continue reading

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When The Icicles Don’t Hang Straight

So here I am, belayed halfway up Church Door Buttress on Bidean nan Bian wondering why the icicles aren’t hanging straight. It is Tuesday March 7 and it’s gently snowing. Iain Small is above me climbing a vertical ice-filled corner … Continue reading

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Cloudjumper

“Dave MacLeod and I headed up the Ben last Sunday (March 5),” Helen Rennard writes. “We had been thinking of climbing something up in Coire na Ciste and Dave had kindly offered to belay me on something (I tend to … Continue reading

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Salvation Ribs

On March 4, John Jackson and Martin Holland headed in to Beinn Alligin with a couple of teams to attempt the classic Grade IV ice gully of West Coast Boomer on Tom na Gruagaich. “John, Joanne McCandless and Graeme Crowder … Continue reading

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The Shape Of Things To Come

I had the privilege of accompanying Iain Small on a journey up the North Wall of Carn Dearg on March 2. This excellent but unfrequented cliff is situated left of The Shroud on Ben Nevis. Steep and rocky and lying … Continue reading

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Canopy on Blaven

Michael Barnard and John MacLeod made one of the finest first winter ascents this season when they ascended Canopy (VI,6), a Severe chimney-line on Blaven. The route was first climbed by Ian Clough and party in a productive Skye trip in 1968. Michael … Continue reading

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Assynt Exploration

The 2017 winter continues to be a challenging one. The rapidly varying conditions have not been particularly helpful for those seeking new routes, so I was delighted when Iain Young and John Higham made a good addition to the Assynt … Continue reading

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