Busy Season at the Cutting Edge

The following ascents were initially reported on Instagram but unfortunately, I do not have first-hand details. All are significant ascents and are listed here to maintain the historical record.

8 December, Lochnagar, Nihilist (IX,9)
First winter ascent by Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson. Had been attempted before by various teams.

18 December, Cul Mor, Vortex (X,10)
First ascent by Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson. ‘Breaches the main roof system cutting its way across this magnificent wall’. Do not know how this relates to existing routes.

3 January, Shelter Stone Crag, Stone Bastion (X,10)
First winter ascent by Tim Miller and Jamie Skelton. Based on the summer line except the first two pitches were avoided by starting up The Needle (Winter) / Postern. Climbed in seven pitches with the crux at the top. The route took four attempts, and the team ‘had to resort to throwing a rope down the last pitch to check it out on one of the trips.’

12 January, Lochnagar, Bring da Ruckus (XII,13)
First ascent by Greg Boswell, Jamie Skelton and Hamish Frost. Takes the roof and wall right of Shadowlands on Shadow Buttress A. Climbed ground up with two falls on the crux roof. The highest graded winter route in Scotland to date.

20 January, Beinn Bhan, Core an Fhamhair, Delusion Direct (IX,9)
New six-pitch route by Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson. No further details.

29 January, Coire an Lochain, Banana Wall (XII,12)
Second and third ascents reported by Calum Muskett and Dave MacLeod.

Further details can be found on <ukclimbing.com>, <planetmountain.com>, <davemacleod.com>, <newroutes.smc.org.uk>, <climber.co.uk>

About Simon Richardson

Simon Richardson is a passionate Scottish winter climber
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