Monthly Archives: January 2014

North Craig Glen Prosen

On Friday January 24, Ian McIntosh, Sharon Wright and Martin (Wilf) Holland decided to visit North Craig in Glen Prosen. “We were looking for somewhere East and low to avoid the worst of the weather and preferably with a southerly … Continue reading

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Robin McAllister (1967 – 2014)

A few days ago, the terrible news broke that Robin McAllister had died at the young age of 47. Robin was based in Ayrshire and was one of the driving forces in Scottish winter climbing during the 1990s. He spectacularly … Continue reading

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One More Damp Day in the West

“So said Dave McGimpsey when we got back to the car,” Andy Nisbet recounts. “Which seemed a bit mean; better than being pulverised by gales and spindrift in the East, I thought. Thanks should first go to James Roddie for … Continue reading

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Gallifrey Groove

“It’s proving tricky to make the best of the fluctuating conditions this winter,” Simon Yearsley writes. “This weekend was no exception. The forecasts changed daily as a variety of fronts pushed through at seemingly random speeds. So, as Malcolm [Bass] … Continue reading

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Creagan Cha-no – Diary Update

18 February 2013: First ascent Max Encouragement (VI,7) on Arch Wall by Masa Sakano and Luke Abbott. This steep pitch climbs the parallel cracks just right of the second pitch of Daylight Robbery on the Arch Wall headwall. Masa originally … Continue reading

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Scary Monsters

“Looking across to Stacan Dubha from Stac an Fharaidh a few days ago,” Andy Nisbet writes, “I couldn’t help noticing this snowy gully. I thought I knew the crag well and that all the main lines had been done, but … Continue reading

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Scansor – First Winter Ascent

On Friday January 17, Iain Small and Tony Stone pulled off a major ascent with the first winter ascent of Scansor on Stob Coire nan Lochan. This spectacular E2 rock climb up the front face of the pillar to the … Continue reading

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Diedre of the Sorrows – Early Repeat

Pete Macpherson and Martin Moran added to their long list of cutting edge ascents with an ascent of Diedre of the Sorrows (VIII,8) on Lochnagar’s Tough-Brown Face on January 11. This much-celebrated route was first climbed by Dougie Dinwoodie and … Continue reading

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Twisted – Second Ascent

“Back in November Harry Holmes, Dan Tait and I went into Stob Coire nan Lochan in Glen Coe with the aim of making the second ascent of Twisted, a three-pitch three star VII,7 to the left of Chimney Route put … Continue reading

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Church Door Angels

Donald King, Mike Pescod and Andy Nelson made the first ascent of Angels (VIII,9), an excellent new mixed route on the front face of Church Door Buttress on Bidean nam Bian in Glen Coe on January 13. Conditions were good … Continue reading

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