Tag Archives: Creagan Cha-no

The Arc of Profanity

While making the second ascent of The Edge of Profanity in November, Dave Brookes and Jules Harris noted that there was further new route potential on the Left-Hand Buttress of Creagan Cha-no on Cairn Gorm. On January 18 they returned … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

All Go on Shapeshifter Wall

It’s been busy on Shapeshifter Wall on Lurcher’s Crag in the Cairngorms. The steep three-pitch Shapeshifter (VIII,8) was the brainchild of Steve Perry who made the first ascent with Andy Nisbet and Helen Rennard last January. The route was repeated … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes, Repeats | Tagged , , , , , , , | Comments Off on All Go on Shapeshifter Wall

The Edge of Profanity – Second Ascent

On November 30, Dave Brookes and Jules Harris put to bed a well-known problem on Creagan Cha-no when they made the first free ascent of The Edge of Profanity. This short, but deceptively steep route, was first climbed early last … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes, Repeats | Tagged , , , , , , , | Comments Off on The Edge of Profanity – Second Ascent

White Walkers

Mark Robson and I took the easy option on Sunday November 17 and arrived late at the Cairn Gorm Ciste car park in the full knowledge that others would be ahead of us and making a trail to Creagan Cha-no. … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , | Comments Off on White Walkers

Mid December Update

The first half of December was wild and windy, which rather limited activity. The Northern Corries were popular, and on Creagan Cha-no, the new mini guidebook prompted a flurry of activity filling in the remaining lines, which are mostly in … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , , , , , , | Comments Off on Mid December Update

November Cold Snap

After a very warm first half of November, the cold easterlies that set up in the middle of the month were good news for winter climbers. The big decision was whether to go east or west. Going west meant better … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes, Repeats | Tagged , , , , , , , , | Comments Off on November Cold Snap

New Mini Guidebook to Creagan Cha-no

Today, the Scottish Mountaineering Club published a mini-guide to the popular and easily accessible Creagan Cha-no on the east side of Cairn Gorm. This is the first guidebook published for the cliff and includes all routes climbed until the start … Continue reading

Posted in Commentary, New Routes | Tagged , , , , , | Comments Off on New Mini Guidebook to Creagan Cha-no

The Edge of Profanity

Finding good early season winter climbing conditions can be a tricky business. The winter weather that started on the night of October 26 came in on strong north-westerlies depositing deep snow on eastern aspects and insulating the turf. The well-known … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , , , | 7 Comments

Hobnailers’ Gully

It is traditional for the President of the Scottish Mountaineering Club to lead a walk on the Sunday after the annual dinner. As the event takes place in early December, lousy weather often dictates a low level affair, although some … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

All Go on Cha-no

The popular early season cliff of Creagan Cha-no on the east side of Cairn Gorm has been busy over the last couple of weeks. In the main, it has been the popular classics such as Anvil Gully, Jenga Buttress and … Continue reading

Posted in Commentary, New Routes | Tagged , , , , | Comments Off on All Go on Cha-no