Scottishwinter.com

Harry Holmes leading the crux pitch of Raven’s Edge on Buachaille Etive Mor. This excellent route was first ascended in winter by Aberdeen climbers Rick Allen and Brian Sprunt during the great January storm in 1984. They avoided the crux open book corner by taking the rib to the right. The summer route was first climbed in its entirety by Rab Anderson and Rob Milne in March 1996. (Photo Harry Homes Collection)

Harry Holmes, Helen Rennard and partner made a rare repeat of Raven’s Edge (VII,7) in Glen Coe on March 26. The superb route takes the narrow buttress to the right of Raven’s Gully

“We had the mountain pretty much to ourselves,” Harry told me. “There were two other cars in the car park but we didn’t see anyone else all day. We found there to be two quite hard pitches, those being the second and third. The second pitch is a thin traverse and the third is a long sustained corner. The off-width horror show I was expecting at the top never seemed to really materialise.

I think VII,8 might be a fair grade as it felt harder than any  tech 7 I’ve done before, and was reasonably sustained. Conditions on the Buachaille were looking really good and even Ravens Gully looked nicely iced!”

“It was a great route,” Helen confirmed.” Harry did really well leading. There was quite a lot of loose rock (a big rock came off when he was leading the crux). We climbed up a very icy Great Gully to get to the route – quite an approach!”

Dave Macleod setting off on the second pitch of Angry Chair, a new VII,8 on the East Flank of Tower Ridge of Ben Nevis. “It was a really good varied route with interesting climbing, a pumpy crux pitch and great situations,” his partner Helen Rennard summarised afterwards. (Photo Helen Rennard)

Dave MacLeod and Helen Rennard added a good new icy mixed route on Ben Nevis on Tuesday February 26.

“We didn’t have a definite plan on Tuesday and took up a large mixed rack and ice screws so we had the option of either ice or mixed,” Helen explained. “Dave had been up on the Sunday and had seen that there were still mixed routes to be done up Observatory Gully, but as a temperature inversion was forecast we thought it might be too warm. We stopped for tea at the Hut and then decided to head up there and have a look anyway. Dave had seen some potential new lines on the wall right of Clefthanger and when we got there it looked to be in good condition.

I led the first pitch, which started up snowy steps and then went left up an open corner and series of steep ramps past a large booming flake at half height and onto snowy slabs above. The snow was cruddy and mostly unhelpful and there was lots of clearing. There was ice in the cracks too. The hooks in the corner crack were good and the flake provided a welcome rest, though I wasn’t entirely convinced how solid it was…

Dave led the second pitch, which was the crux and went up the snow-covered slabs and left into a steep icy corner. He was out of sight once he stepped round into this. There was a good bit of ice on this pitch, though not enough to front point on, which made it difficult. There were good hooks on the right wall near the top of the pitch, then a heave onto the belay ledge.

The third pitch went up past a large block on a ledge then slightly down before traversing across a five metre vertical wall to get to Grade IV ice. The protection at the start of this pitch was two Peckers and, whilst there was a decent handrail for your axes there was nothing much for your feet. I set off to lead this pitch, then promptly passed it over to Dave when I saw the traverse! Once on the ice we continued up this to easy ground, from where we traversed off to the left and into Tower Gully.

We walked back down under the stars with Iain Small, who’d just done Astronomy with Blair Fyffe and Nona Thomas. Then more tea at the Hut, kindly served to us by Rich Bentley. A good day all round!”

Simon Yearsley starting up the second pitch of Beggars Belief (VII,7) on Ben Nevis during the first ascent. The crux wall is visible diagonally above his right shoulder. (Photo Helen Rennard)

Simon Yearsley and Helen Rennard added a testing new route to the left of Vanishing Gully on Ben Nevis on Wednesday (January 16). Simon decribes their ascent:

“Helen and I were out yesterday looking at the Secondary Tower Ridge area on Ben Nevis.  I’d often thought of this as an interesting place to visit, as there do seem to be some gaps, and there’s an awful lot of rock! In this area there’s a good combination of mixed routes (Fat Boy Slim), the classic gullies (Vanishing) and some mixed climbs which rely on good plated ice (Running Hot).

I was intrigued as to why the summer VDiff line of Beggar’s Groove hadn’t been done in winter.  Neither of us had climbed in this area before, so we weren’t too sure what the characteristics of the rock would be like (often a critical factor with mixed routes on the Ben), but I did remember Iain Small’s quote when he and Simon Richardson had climbed the nearby Rogue’s Rib back in March 2011 ‘The cracks are good and it’s turfy’, and ‘It’s slabby without much gear’. Two intriguing quotes… the only way to find out what Beggar’s Groove was like was to give it a try!

Helen led the first pitch, the obvious chimney mid way between 1934 Route and Vanishing Gully which proved fun, and belayed below a steeper area.  From here we took a long time trying to figure out where the Beggar’s Groove went, but simply couldn’t follow the summer description. So we headed up the natural winter line – a nice open groove, a short traverse left and then a steep wall. This gave the first crux of the route, with hard but good climbing… and no, the cracks weren’t great and what turf there was, was very pebbly and very thin indeed! It was very time-consuming to lead the pitch, as route finding wasn’t straightforward, the placements difficult to unearth, and the spaced protection not easy to find. The light was fading as we tackled another couple of (still interesting) pitches, and then headed into steeper ground above as the night closed in.

By now we were down to one decent headtorch and one pretty dim headtorch, and Helen’s lead of the final pitch was a superb piece of climbing. This was the second crux and gave 50m of absorbing technical climbing including a steep technical crack, and a very precarious mantelshelf onto a turf blob which had her only protection for 8m embedded in it – a bulldog which of course came out a wee bit too easily.  The pitch finished with a superb diagonal rightwards traverse across steep slabs with just enough dabs of thin turf to climb, but certainly not to protect easily. What was it that Iain had said? Oh yes – ‘…slabby without much gear’.  His description was spot on. I definitely thought it was an excellent pitch to second!

Overall grade of VII,7 is probably about right, but it’s definitely high in the grade, with a pretty serious feel to the two crux pitches. Worth at least one star.

The route finished on Tower Ridge, which we descended, wondering to ourselves what folk in the valley would be thinking as they saw lights descending Tower Ridge late at night… ‘There goes another party over-extended on Tower Ridge and bailing’. Over-extended… nearly. Bailing, definitely not. We called the route, ‘Beggars Belief’, partly because it was close to Beggar’s Groove, and partly because it did beggar belief as to how long it can take to climb new mixed line on Ben Nevis!”

Blair Fyffe on the initial ramp of The Copenhagen Interpretation (VI,7) on South Trident Buttress, Ben Nevis. This route benefitted from icy conditions – The Ben has been particularly icy at mid-altitude elevations over the last couple of weeks, and the current fluctuating temperatures should continue to see the ice building over the coming days. (Photo Helen Rennard)

On November 3, Blair Fyffe made the probable first winter ascent of Blue-Nosed Baboon on Garadh Buttress on Ben Nevis. This summer VDiff went at a winter grade of V,5 and is described on Blair’s excellent blog. Whilst climbing this route Blair noticed a prominent line starting up a ramp on the other side of Coire na Ciste on South Trident Buttress. Blair assumed this was the line of The Minge (VII,8), but later study of the guidebook revealed that The Minge took a line further left.

Wind forward to December 18 when Blair was climbing on The Ben with Helen Rennard. They decided to take a look at South Trident Buttress and the result was The Copenhagen Interpretation, a good five-pitch route taking the initial ramp, followed by two difficult pitches up grooves and cracks leading to easier ground in the vicinity of Joyful Chimneys. The pair was assisted by consolidated snow-ice on the slabs on the second pitch that linked the two crack systems, and the crux crack above may have been made easier with a good coating of ice.

“The Copenhagen Interpretation is an interpretation of the unusual mathematics of quantum mechanics,” Blair (a PhD Astrophysicist) told me. “The ephemeral and uncertain world of the sub-atomic particles shows similarities to the transient and uncertain world of Scottish winter climbing conditions. Both worlds, although challenging, and in some ways always alien to us, have an other worldly beauty.”

Dave Almond making an early repeat of Tuberculosis (VI,6) on Stob Coire nan Lochan. This rarely climbed two-pitch route takes the steep groove right of Crest Route and was first ascended by Dave Hollinger and Guy Willett in February 2004. (Photo Helen Rennard)

Last week (December 10-14) was undoubtedly the week of the winter so far. Heavy snowfall was consolidated by a mini-thaw the previous weekend followed by stable cold weather with no wind and blue skies.

Several of the major events have already been reported on scottishwinter.com – Guy Robertson and Greg Boswell’s first ascent of the Vapouriser (VIII,9) on Creag an Dubh Loch, Martin Moran and Pete Macpherson’s third ascent of Steeple (IX,9) on the Shelter Stone and Andy Nisbet and Brain Davison’s good run of new routes in Glen Coe and An Teallach.

The Cuillin Ridge came into good conditions and four teams made the winter traverse. Both Scott Kirkhope and Ken Applegate and John Orr and Ronnie made a traditional outing with a bivouac, whilst the Fort William-based team of Guy Steven, Donald King, Kenny Grant and Duncan made a lightning-quick traverse in only 12 hours. This is very respectable time for a summer ascent and the team was aided by King’s intimate knowledge of the route. All these ascents were widely reported on various blogs and Twitter, but more impressive perhaps was a solo traverse by Barry Smyth with one bivouac. The Cuillin Ridge has been traversed in winter solo before, but to do it mid-winter with precious little daylight and long nights takes a very special resolve.

Dave Almond had a good run of routes with Helen Rennard. They started off with The Secret/Cornucopia Combination (VII,8) on Ben Nevis, followed by Tyrannosaur (VI,7) on Lost Valley Buttress in Glen Coe. On their third day they climbed Sidewinder (VII,8) on the Ben and finished off their four-day spell with an early repeat of Tuberculosis (VI,7) on Stob Coire an Lochan. Dave then teamed up with Guy Steven and Blair Fyffe to climb Sticil Face (V,6) on the Shelter Stone with the Direct Finish.

Helen Rennard on the second pitch of Titan Cracks, a new V,6 on South Trident Buttress on Ben Nevis. Steep mixed routes high on the Ben were in good condition last weekend with the cliffs coated in a layer of aerated hoar frost. (Photo Simon Richardson)

There was a clutch of good mixed routes climbed on Ben Nevis last week, and I expected the mountain to be busy on Saturday December 1. Helen Rennard and I were attending the SMC dinner that evening in Fort William, so we decided to head up to the Upper Tier of South Trident Buttress which has a series of good three-pitch long mixed routes.

We climbed the steep cracked pillar between Poseidon Grooves and Triton Corners finishing up the continuation spur above. The climbing was a little intimidating at first, with a deep layer of hoar frost burying the cliff, but I soon realised that it brushed off easily revealing some good hooks in the initial chimney-crack. Helen made a fine lead of the corner above, and the continuation spur made a fine finish.

We topped out on the plateau in good time, but somehow we dawdled on the way down, and it was the usual last minute rush to put on our glad rags ready for the dinner!

A busy day in the Northern Corries. Andy Munro climbing Auricle (left) and Andy Inglis on Ventriloquist in Coire an Lochain. (Photo James Richardson)

It was an excellent winter climbing weekend in the Cairngorms with teams active on many crags including Braeriach, Coire Sputan Dearg, Lochnagar and the Shelter Stone.

The Northern Corries were especially popular with dozens of parties enjoying the early winter sunshine. Conditions were particularly good for so early in the season with frozen turf and generally dry cracks all coated with a healthy layer of new snow and hoar frost on the steep sections.

James Richardson sent me the above picture with tongue in cheek comment – “Shows typical winter solitude on No. 1 Buttress in Coire an Lochain.” James was climbing Auricle with Andy Munro, and Andy Inglis was partnered by Helen Rennard on Ventriloquist. “James and Andy were next to us all the way up,” Helen explained. “It was very sociable. We shouted ‘Andy’ and they both turned around for the photo!”

James Edwards battling up the final corner of a new V,7 on Stacan Fharaidh in the Cairngorms on December 30. Strong North-Westerlies had deposited a layer of fresh snow on this south-facing crag. (Photo Simon Richardson)

The hairdryer thaw over Christmas did not completely devastate winter in the Cairngorms, and the Loch Avon Basin was surprisingly busy on Friday December 30.

On the Shelter Stone, Postern had a couple of ascents by Iain Small and Susan Jensen followed by Helen Rennard, Henning Wackerhage and Mark Mosgrove. Over on Carn Etchachan, Mark Chadwick and partner made an ascent of Route Major.

Andy Nisbet and Jonathan Preston had a productive day on Stacan Dubha making the first ascent of Atlantis (III), the line of grooves just right of The Shuttle, and the first winter ascent of Zig-Zag (IV,4) at the left end of the crag.  Meanwhile, on Stac an Fharaidh, James Edwards and I climbed the prominent three-pitch buttress on the upper tier of the West Sector which gave a good V,7 mixed route, starting up steep ground before finishing up easier grooves.

Vince Aerts pulling through one of the many chokestones on the third pitch of Great Overhanging Gully (VI,7) on Beinn Bhan in Applecross. This legendary route was first climbed by Mick Fowler and Phil Butler in 1984, and has seen very few repeats, but it saw two ascents last weekend. (Photo Pete Davies)

At first sight, the North-West Highlands were not a logical choice last weekend, with heavy showers, dumping high levels of snow across the region. Parties attempting the classic Liathach and Alligin ridge traverses were unsuccessful, due to time consuming deep snow and dangerous avalanche conditions at the head of gullies.

Helen Rennard and partner, decided to take the gamble however, and were rewarded with a brilliant weekend. On Saturday December 18, they made an early repeat of Tango in the Night (VI,7) on Sgorr Ruadh, which is reckoned to be one of the best mixed routes on the Northern Highlands. Despite tired legs, they went in to Beinn Bhan the following day, and climbed the awe-inspiring Great Overhanging Gully (VI,7), an archetypical Mick Fowler route, first climbed in March 1984.

“It was the hardest day’s climbing I’ve ever had!” Helen told me afterwards. Helen explained that the walking conditions were tough, but the route was technically demanding as well. I was intrigued, because GOHG was first repeated by Dave Hesleden and Chris Cartwright in February 1994, and it was they who gave it its current two-tier grade. I spoke to Dave and Chris, and they both agreed that they thought the grade was fair. “We weren’t trying to be competitive or anything,“ Chris said. “After all, it was a Fowler route!” But as Chris explained, it was nearly 18 years ago now since they climbed the route (they also made the first free ascent in the process) and couldn’t remember for sure. (I suspect they were both climbing extremely well at the time, as they made the first ascent of Foobarbundy on Liathach the day afterwards (still unrepeated), which at VIII,7 is still arguably, one of the most difficult ice routes in Scotland).

Pete Davies (another very accomplished Scottish winter climber with first ascents of hard routes such as The Brass Monkey and Catriona on Ben Nevis to his name), and Belgian climber Vince Aerts, climbed the route last Saturday, so I asked his opinion.

“We thought it was pretty hard as well,” Pete told me, “because the difficulties are sustained all the way to the top. If The Godfather is given VIII, and Genesis VII, then VI (all be it at the top end of the grade), might be about right, I suppose. The overhangs are always well protected with a few run-outs on the less steep ground in between. I think it’s the best winter route I’ve done. It had everything – Ice, turf, overhangs, spindrift, overhangs, consolidated snow, overhangs, unconsolidated snow, overhangs, night time finish! We had a fly-by from a Golden Eagle as well!”

Pete sent me the photo above, and all becomes clear. Dave and Chris reported good ice on their ascent in 1994, whilst Pete’s photo shows thin and fragile ice, so upward progress last weekend must have mainly relied on rock and frozen vegetation.

Whilst Helen was climbing on Beinn Bhan, Roger Webb and I were having our own adventure on Beinn Damh in Torridon. This Corbett has some long winter climbs on its east face, but Roger knew of a vertical quartzite cliff directly under the summit, so we decided to go and have a look. Unfortunately, the rock was very unhelpful and difficult to protect, but we succeeded on our objective of climbing the curving cleft left of centre, that breaches the central line of overhangs, to give access to an icy groove above. Due to a communication error we carried three ice hooks up the mountain, which was just as well, as they provided all the key protection on the climb. Roger’s name suggestion, The Bulldog Spirit (V,5), was apt in more ways than one!

Helen Rennard on the first ascent of Shining Edge (III,4) on the East Wing of Stob Ban in the Mamores. The route continues up the vertical turfy groove in the top centre of the photo. (Photo Simon Richardson)

After being battered by wind and blizzards whilst climbing on Ben Nevis last Saturday, Helen Rennard and I were looking for an easier option for Sunday December 4. The forecast was for more snow and strong winds, so after a lot of humming and hawing (on my part at least), we decided to visit Stob Bab in the Mamores.

I had never climbed on Stob Ban before, but I had walked up to look at the cliffs over 20 years ago, and was keen to make a return visit. I knew it wasn’t the ideal choice for Sunday, because the cliffs face north-east and had been sheltered from the prevailing westerlies, and the turf was less likely to be frozen than more exposed aspects. But, I reasoned, Stob Ban is comprised of quartzite, which unlike schist and granite has less inherent nutrients, so the cliff was unlikely to be very turfy, and the climbing would rely on snowed-up rock.

As it turned out, I was completely wrong about the vegetation – the cliff was as turfy as most other Scottish crags, but fortunately we found an exposed crest to the right of the gully-line of Eag Blanc on the East Wing. Our route looked steep and daunting from below, but in the event it was far easier than it looked, and provided an excellent III,4. And even the turf was frozen!