Tag Archives: Buachaille Etive Mor

The Holy Grail

If you turn to page 97 of the SMC’s Glen Coe guidebook there is a superb picture by Alan Leary of the top pitch of Shibboleth on Buachaille Etive Mor. Look more closely and to the right of the climber … Continue reading

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Marmalade – First Winter Ascent

On January 7, Michael Barnard and John MacLeod had a fine day making the first winter ascent of Marmalade (VI,6) on D Gully Buttress on Buachaille Etive Mor. “With the cold weather and snow down to lower levels, it seemed a … Continue reading

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The Orphan – First Winter Ascent

On December 14, Steve Holmes, Duncan Curry and Hannah Evans made the first winter ascent of The Orphan (VII,8) on the North-East Face of Crowberry Ridge on The Buachaille. This summer VS, which was first climbed by Messrs. Read, Jones … Continue reading

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Cold Revenge

Nick Bullock and Guy Robertson made a significant addition to Buachaille Etive Mor’s Slime Wall on March 27 with the first ascent of Cold Revenge (IX,8). “We started up the first three pitches of Bludger’s Revelation, then climbed a short … Continue reading

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Raven’s Edge

Harry Holmes, Helen Rennard and partner made a rare repeat of Raven’s Edge (VII,7) in Glen Coe on March 26. The superb route takes the narrow buttress to the right of Raven’s Gully “We had the mountain pretty much to … Continue reading

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Early Repeat of The Good Groove and Much More…

Every season I receive an exciting email or two from Tim Neill recounting his latest adventures in the Scottish Highlands. It’s always a long list of impressive new routes and repeats, which is very fitting, because Tim’s enthusiasm for winter … Continue reading

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Raven’s Gully – Recent Ascents

I was intrigued last week, by a brief mention on UK Climbing that a team had made a rare ascent of Raven’s Gully with the Direct Finish in Glen Coe on February 8. It turned out it was Plas y … Continue reading

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Engineer’s Crack – First Winter Ascent

On Friday January 25, Donald King and Mike Pescod notched up a significant first winter ascent in Glen Coe by climbing Engineer’s Crack on Buachaille Etive Mor. Engineer’s Crack lies on the north-east side of Crowberry ridge (to the right … Continue reading

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Guerdon Grooves – Second Ascent

I’m just back from the International Winter Meet at Glenmore Lodge. This superb biennial event consists of 40 guests from 20 different countries climbing with 40 Scottish-savvy British climbers all under the watchful eye of Becky McGovern and Nick Colton … Continue reading

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