Tag Archives: Buachaille Etive Mor

2021 Winter Catch Up

Now that winter is over, and lockdown largely behind us, I have summarised activity from January 4 until the end of the season. The Cuillin: Big news from Skye was the first winter ascent of Mongoose Direct (VIII,8) on Sgurr … Continue reading

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International Winter Meet Day 4

On February 26, the wind dropped and all eyes turned to Ben Nevis with close to 40 climbers from the International Meet active on the mountain. The standout performance came from Peter Hoang (Canada) and Neil Adams who made an … Continue reading

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International Winter Meet Day 3

First of all, the big news from yesterday (February 24) was a new route on Minus Two Buttress on Ben Nevis by Maarten Van Haeren (Canada) and Andy Inglis. Calculus (VIII,8) takes a line directly through the overhangs that girdle … Continue reading

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Blackmount Wall

The heavy snowfall at the end of January fell without any wind and coated the Scottish mountains with a uniform layer of powder snow. This was a boon for skiers, but for classic winter climbing it needed to consolidate a … Continue reading

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Dingle First Winter Ascent

Tim Miller is having an excellent winter. He has succeeded on a number of demanding test pieces such as The Secret, and in December he climbed a difficult new route on The Cobbler with Martin McKenna. On February 2, Tim … Continue reading

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The Holy Grail

If you turn to page 97 of the SMC’s Glen Coe guidebook there is a superb picture by Alan Leary of the top pitch of Shibboleth on Buachaille Etive Mor. Look more closely and to the right of the climber … Continue reading

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Marmalade – First Winter Ascent

On January 7, Michael Barnard and John MacLeod had a fine day making the first winter ascent of Marmalade (VI,6) on D Gully Buttress on Buachaille Etive Mor. “With the cold weather and snow down to lower levels, it seemed a … Continue reading

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The Orphan – First Winter Ascent

On December 14, Steve Holmes, Duncan Curry and Hannah Evans made the first winter ascent of The Orphan (VII,8) on the North-East Face of Crowberry Ridge on The Buachaille. This summer VS, which was first climbed by Messrs. Read, Jones … Continue reading

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Cold Revenge

Nick Bullock and Guy Robertson made a significant addition to Buachaille Etive Mor’s Slime Wall on March 27 with the first ascent of Cold Revenge (IX,8). “We started up the first three pitches of Bludger’s Revelation, then climbed a short … Continue reading

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Raven’s Edge

Harry Holmes, Helen Rennard and partner made a rare repeat of Raven’s Edge (VII,7) in Glen Coe on March 26. The superb route takes the narrow buttress to the right of Raven’s Gully “We had the mountain pretty much to … Continue reading

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