Tag Archives: Lochnagar

Gryphon Grooves

A key piece of advice in Chasing the Ephemeral is take time to assess conditions at the base of the cliff before you start climbing. The ten minutes you spend at this point can be the most critical point of … Continue reading

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More Scouring Please

There is a lot of snow lying in useful places all over the Highlands and this winter is shaping up to be an excellent season for classic Scottish winter climbing. The snow banks are nicely oozing ice, but it needs … Continue reading

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Early Bird on Lochnagar

Full winter conditions arrived this weekend on the Scottish mountains with climbing activity on Ben Nevis, the Cairngorms and North-West. First to report a new route were Drew Stevenson and Stuart Cossar who made an enterprising first ascent of Early … Continue reading

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Blink And You Miss It

“Blink and You Miss It!” Mark Chadwick exclaimed on Facebook after making a well timed ascent of an attractively rimed Auricle (VI,7) in Coire an Lochain with Duncan Hodgson. Following the Christmas Day thaw and Boxing Day storm, winter conditions … Continue reading

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Winter on The Sentinel

This winter continues to be a frustrating one. A cold snap before Christmas saw Sophie Grace Chapell and I heading for the Southern Sector of Lochnagar. The buttresses on the left side corrie have a westerly aspect, which makes them … Continue reading

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Lean Times in Raeburn’s Gully

Before the high pressure properly set in at the beginning of December there were some fine days with cool nights. Winter climbing looked pretty hopeless, but the deep gullies high in the Cairngorms kept a little snow and ice. Several … Continue reading

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Early Season Update

By any measure it’s been a slow start to the season. During the cold snap in November many climbers enjoyed good climbing on the well known early season venues in the Cairngorms and Ben Nevis, but a major thaw followed … Continue reading

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White Mamba

I’m terrified of snakes so Cnapan Nathraichean (the knoll of the adders) on the north side of Lochnagar has never been one of my favourite crags. One time when I was below the cliff in summer a large female slithered … Continue reading

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Judas Priest – Possible New Direct Finish

On January 31, Forrest Templeton and Kevin Murphy climbed a possible new Direct Finish to Judas Priest (V,5) on The Cathedral on Lochnagar. “We climbed the first pitch of Judas Priest,” Forrest explained, “but instead of breaking right when it … Continue reading

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Diedre of the Sorrows – Early Repeat

Pete Macpherson and Martin Moran added to their long list of cutting edge ascents with an ascent of Diedre of the Sorrows (VIII,8) on Lochnagar’s Tough-Brown Face on January 11. This much-celebrated route was first climbed by Dougie Dinwoodie and … Continue reading

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