Tag Archives: Lochnagar

White Mamba

I’m terrified of snakes so Cnapan Nathraichean (the knoll of the adders) on the north side of Lochnagar has never been one of my favourite crags. One time when I was below the cliff in summer a large female slithered … Continue reading

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Judas Priest – Possible New Direct Finish

On January 31, Forrest Templeton and Kevin Murphy climbed a possible new Direct Finish to Judas Priest (V,5) on The Cathedral on Lochnagar. “We climbed the first pitch of Judas Priest,” Forrest explained, “but instead of breaking right when it … Continue reading

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Diedre of the Sorrows – Early Repeat

Pete Macpherson and Martin Moran added to their long list of cutting edge ascents with an ascent of Diedre of the Sorrows (VIII,8) on Lochnagar’s Tough-Brown Face on January 11. This much-celebrated route was first climbed by Dougie Dinwoodie and … Continue reading

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High Cairngorms Exploration

Autumn is a great time to explore the high Cairngorms. The north-west facing Northern Corries rime up quickly with the first snows of the season, but it is the likes of Braeriach and Beinn a’Bhuird that truly hold the cold … Continue reading

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Nevermore

On April 8, Nick Bullock and Guy Robertson put to bed one of the last great problems on Lochnagar with the first winter ascent of Nevermore on the Tough-Brown Face. This rarely climbed summer E2 was first climbed by Dougie … Continue reading

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Mort – Second Ascent

On February 22, Greg Boswell, Guy Robertson and Nick Bullock pulled off one of Scotland’s the most prized winter repeats with the second winter ascent of Mort (IX,9) on the Tough-Brown Face of Lochnagar. The 1995 SMC guidebook to the … Continue reading

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Fancy Free on Lochnagar

Pete Benson, Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson succeeded on an excellent technical new route on Lochnagar yesterday before the thaw set in. “We climbed the obvious groove line parallel to and left of Footloose on Central Buttress to give Fancy … Continue reading

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Insurgents on Lochnagar

Lochnagar is my local crag, and over the years I have climbed almost all of its features, often by multiple routes. But there was one buttress that had eluded me – Sinister Buttress in the Southern Sector. Greg Strange wrote … Continue reading

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The Gravestone

Craig Lamb and Findlay Cranston made a good addition to Clais Rathadan on December 5, with the first ascent of The Gravestone (VI,6). This little cliff makes a good fall back option of the weather is too wild higher up … Continue reading

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A Ghost of a Chance

On Wednesday April 4, Craig Lamb and Joel Paterson took advantage of the recent icy blast with a well-timed visit to the Southern Sector on Lochnagar. After the recent warm temperatures (the week before folk were rock climbing on Dubh … Continue reading

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