Monthly Archives: March 2018

Gryphon Grooves

Posted on March 28, 2018 by Simon Richardson

A key piece of advice in Chasing the Ephemeral is take time to assess conditions at the base of the cliff before you start climbing. The ten minutes you spend at this point can be the most critical point of … Continue reading →

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Moulin Rouge

Posted on March 23, 2018 by Simon Richardson

For me, the beautiful proportions of Pinnacle Buttress of the Tower makes it one of the most alluring features on Ben Nevis. So much so, that I’ve climbed seven routes on its crest and flanks, but in my focus to … Continue reading →

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Tempest Corners

Posted on March 22, 2018 by Simon Richardson

The grooves left of Joyful Chimneys on South Trident Buttress on the Ben had fascinated me for years. The problem is that they need ice and by the time this has formed in early March, the morning sun is high … Continue reading →

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Creag Meagaidh Diary

Posted on March 19, 2018 by Simon Richardson

It’s been a busy couple of weeks on Creag Meagaidh’s Pinnacle Buttress, which has probably been in it’s best condition since winter 2005: February 24: Iain Small and Andy Inglis climb Paradise Lost (VII,8), a new route up the centre … Continue reading →

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You Can’t Win ‘Em All

Posted on March 16, 2018 by Simon Richardson

“Whilst many times guiding the Inaccessible Pinnacle in the 1990s, I often looked down its Coruisg side to where slabby ground dropped away rapidly,” Andy Nisbet writes. “Because the slope was convex, all you could see was what was in … Continue reading →

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Western Highlands Most Sought After Route

Posted on March 15, 2018 by Simon Richardson

I received an intriguing email from Richard Bentley on March 5: “I got the call from Robin at 9pm last night. (He wouldn’t say the route.) Meet at Spean Bridge at 7am. A drive, a boat, a fast stomp in … Continue reading →

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Southern Highlands Update

Posted on March 13, 2018 by Simon Richardson

Martin (Wilf) Holland visited Coire na Saobhaidhe on Beinn Chuirn near Tyndrum on March 6. “A brief break in the clouds allowed me to see the crag and there were surprisingly large cornices, which had survived the thaw of two … Continue reading →

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Der Riesenwand Direct Finish

Posted on March 11, 2018 by Simon Richardson

Murdoch Jamieson and Nick Bullock climbed a direct finish to Der Riesenwand (VII,6) on February 25. Just before the ‘memorable swing around a bulge’ on the upper left-trending ledge, they were attracted to steep ice on the right, so Murdoch … Continue reading →

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Attaboy

Posted on March 10, 2018 by Simon Richardson

“Beinn Fhada is almost on the west coast behind the Five Sisters of Kintail,” Andy Nisbt writes. “It’s sheltered from most snowy wind directions so is often my choice if there’s too much snow elsewhere. No doubt it rains a … Continue reading →

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Easan Feidh Climbed At Last!

Posted on March 8, 2018 by Simon Richardson

Steve Perry and Sophie Grace Chappell showed remarkable vision, determination and persistence when they made the first ascent of Easan Feidh (VI,6) on March 5. This spectacular 90m-high waterfall, which lies on Creag na h-lolaire to the south of Ben … Continue reading →

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