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Monthly Archives: January 2012
BMC Winter Meet – Ben Nevis Update
The BMC Winter Meet visited Ben Nevis en masse on Friday January 27 and came away with an impressive haul of routes including Sioux Wall, Smith’s Route, Darth Vader, Babylon, North-East Buttress, Tower Ridge, Gargoyle Wall, Tower Face of the … Continue reading
BMC Winter Meet – Loch Avon Update
The Loch Avon Basin has been a much-visited venue this season, and it was a popular location of Day 2 (January 24) of the BMC Winter Meet with two ascents of the classic Postern on the Shelter Stone. Iain Small … Continue reading
Posted in New Routes, Repeats
Tagged Carn Etchachan, Iain Small, Magnus Stromhall, Marcus Griesshammer, Shelter Stone, Simon Richardson, Stacan Dubha
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Pic ‘n Mix – The Mindless Finish
On Day 1 (January 23) of the BMC International Meet, Nick Bullock set the pace with the first full winter ascent of the Mindless Finish (IX,10) to Pic ‘n Mix. This summer E3 5c pitch is followed by the original … Continue reading
Posted in New Routes
Tagged Bayard Russell, Nick Bullock, Northern Corries
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Don’t Die of Ignorance – Repeated at Last!
I have a long backlog of ascents to write up from last week’s BMC Winter Meet, but some posts just can’t wait…. Greg Boswell and James Dunn pulled off a coveted repeat yesterday (January 29) when they made the second … Continue reading
Posted in Repeats
Tagged Ben Nevis, Greg Boswell, James Dunn
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Rudolf – First Winter Ascent
Murdo Jamieson and Martin Moran had a great day on Beinn Eighe on Monday January 23 with the first winter ascent of Rudolf (VIII,8/9) on the Far East Wall. “Conditions were just right after three days of humid cool weather,” … Continue reading
Posted in New Routes
Tagged Beinn Eighe, Martin Moran, Murdo Jamieson
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Fly Me To The Moon
On the evening of Sunday January 22, Iain Small and I were planning to be at Glenmore Lodge for 7pm for the start of the BMC International Meet, so we were looking for a suitable nearby winter venue. Unfortunately the … Continue reading
Guerdon Grooves – Second Ascent
I’m just back from the International Winter Meet at Glenmore Lodge. This superb biennial event consists of 40 guests from 20 different countries climbing with 40 Scottish-savvy British climbers all under the watchful eye of Becky McGovern and Nick Colton … Continue reading
Posted in Repeats
Tagged Bayard Russell, Buachaille Etive Mor, Guy Robertson, Nick Bullock
4 Comments
Book Review – Winter Climbs in the Cairngorms
I have a battered copy of the second edition of this popular guidebook on my bookshelf. It is over 30 years old (the staples are rusting) and was written by one of the world’s greatest ice climbing pioneers – John … Continue reading
Posted in Book Reviews
Tagged Allen Fyffe, Blair Fyffe, Cairngorms
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Playing Cribbage in Glen Feshie
Andy Nisbet made another visit to Glen Feshie yesterday (january 20): “With a good forecast before a very windy weekend, but rain moving in to the West, another trip to Coire Garbhlach felt right. A complex rib between the two … Continue reading
Posted in New Routes
Tagged Andy Nisbet, Dave McGimpsey, Glen Feshie
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Crawling Round Meagaidh
Collectors of Cold Climbs routes will be interested in the email I’ve just received from Tim Neill: “Keith Ball and I thought about Ben Alder for Monday just past too! It was such a nice day, but probably the best … Continue reading