Monthly Archives: February 2011

Getting Tactical on Beinn Dearg

Andy Nisbet and Duncan Tunstall had an energetic day on Tuesday (February 23), climbing two new lines, Pearl Buttress (IV,5) and Peace Process (IV,3), on the Glensquaib Cliffs of Beinn Dearg. The tactics for the day combined reconnaissance, psychology, conditions … Continue reading

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Sgorr Ruadh’s Crimson Buttress

When Andy Nisbet made the first ascent of Woundwort on Sgorr Ruadh earlier in the winter, he’d noticed an obvious icy chimney near its start leading up left to some pleasant grooves and ramps on the crest of the buttress, … Continue reading

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Truly Accidental

Every so often I receive an email from Martin Holland letting me know about his recent explorations. These are often in the Southern Highlands, and although not often in the highest grades, Martin’s choices are often well chosen and in … Continue reading

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Brave New World

The weather forecast for last weekend was terrible, but as the week progressed climbing on Sunday began to look a possibility. Iain Small and I hummed and hawed about where to go, trying to balance avalanche risk and high winds. … Continue reading

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The Pretender

On Thursday February 17, Nick Bullock, Andy Turner and Bruce Poll visited Ben Nevis and added a challenging new route to the East Flank of Tower Ridge. The Pretender (VII,9) lies on the buttress to the right of The Great … Continue reading

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Angels with Dirty Faces

Iain Small and Tony Stone are not only two of the most talented climbers on the Scottish winter scene today, but they are also amongst the most modest. Take yesterday for example. Iain and I were headed for Carn Dearg … Continue reading

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Third Ascent of The Hurting for Greg Boswell

Yesterday (February 18), Greg Boswell continued his extraordinary run of routes with the third ascent of The Hurting (XI,11) in Coire an t-Sneachda. This 35m-long test-piece, was first climbed in winter by by Dave MacLeod in February 2005 and only … Continue reading

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More Glen Esk Exploration

Duncan Tunstall has continued to explore the cliffs of Glen Esk on the south-east side of the Cairngorms. On Tuesday February 15 he teamed up with Stephen Venables to straighten out last year’s addition Shaula Ridge (III,5) on the north … Continue reading

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Slioch Adventure

Roger Webb and I made the long haul into the north face of Slioch on Tuesday February 15. We added an eight-pitch route folowing a line of grooves near the left edge of the 200m-high Main Buttress. Katabasis (VI,6) kept … Continue reading

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Special Delivery on Meagaidh

On Saturday February 12, Pete Davies, Donnie O’Sullivan and Mike Gardner made a superb addition to the Post Face on Creag Meagaidh. Special Delivery (VI,6) takes the prominent icefall above Staghorn Gully, which doesn’t completely touch down and is approximately … Continue reading

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