Masa Sakano and Phil Ingle made an enterprising visit to the remote An Garbh Choire in the Braeriach massif on March 22 and added a long mountaineering route to the north face of Angel’s Peak (Sgor an Lochain Uaine). The route follows snow/ice all the way, and finishes by the summit of the peak.
Angels and Demons (IV,4) is located on the left side of the north face. The first two pitches climb steep ice and snow (up to tech 4), followed by a 200m-long broad snow slope. Above a 15m ice wall (crux), leads to the final 90m icy snow slope. Masa and Phil made an enterprising ascent – the temperature was thawing to the summit and the first two pitches of the route had disappeared the following day.
“The route follows a broad in places, but well-defined feature,” Masa told me. “Once you set off, you can’t go wrong. I think it was a decent route – not many routes are 450 metres long and top out on a Munro summit!”