Author Archives: Simon Richardson

About Simon Richardson

Simon Richardson is a passionate Scottish winter climber

Season’s End

Hopes for good late season conditions were thwarted by another major thaw in March. By way of compensation, a heavy snowfall in the Cairngorms followed by a helpful thaw-freeze cycle brought the easier north-facing gullies into condition and several teams … Continue reading

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The Chancel First Winter Ascent

Guy Robertson and Andy Inglis pulled off one of the finest climbs of the season on March 18 when they made a first winter ascent based on The Chancel on Beinn a’Bhuird. This five pitch E1 on the West Face … Continue reading

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Feast of the East – Second Ascent

On March 16, Jamie Skelton and Matt Glenn made the second winter ascent of Feast of the East (VIII,9) on the Eastern Ramparts on Beinn Eighe. The route was first climbed by Andy Nisbet and Gill Ollerhead in May 1992, … Continue reading

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Moonpig on Aonach Mor

Strong winds and frequent snowfall have resulted some very dangerous snow conditions recently, especially on the West. On March 8, Graham Wyllie and Cam Bevan visited Coire an Lochain on Aonach Mor. Conditions were tricky, but careful route choice meant … Continue reading

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Neverthought Arête

Without question, it has been a dismal Scottish winter season. The warm weather through most of the peak winter climbing period in February upset many people’s dreams, and the tragic loss of Andy Nisbet and Steve Perry coupled with the … Continue reading

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Alex Runciman (1960 – 2019)

Grahame Nicoll’s atmospheric photograph of Alex Runciman perched above the misty void on Number Three Gully Buttress (III) on Ben Nevis is one of my favourite winter climbing images. It is no coincidence that it was published in both the … Continue reading

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Heavy Flak on Beinn Eighe

Murdoch Jamieson and Uisdean Hawthorn pulled of a notable first winter ascent when they climbed Heavy Flak on Beinn Eighe on February 2. This summer E1 on the Eastern Ramparts was first climbed by Geoff Cohen and Murray Hamilton in … Continue reading

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Blackmount Wall

The heavy snowfall at the end of January fell without any wind and coated the Scottish mountains with a uniform layer of powder snow. This was a boon for skiers, but for classic winter climbing it needed to consolidate a … Continue reading

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Far East Vishnu

On January 30, Murdoch Jamieson and Guy Robertson added an excellent winter-only line on the Far East Wall of Beinn Eighe. One Man’s Mountain takes the obvious left-facing corner right of Vishnu. “Guy had tried it many years ago with Pete … Continue reading

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Andy Nisbet (1953 – 2019)

The British climbing community is reeling from news of the deaths of Andy Nisbet and Steve Perry on Ben Hope on February 5. All climbing accidents are tragic, but this one cuts deep to the core of who we are … Continue reading

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