Category Archives: Commentary

Under The Radar Screen

Despite the consistently cold weather, new route activity has been a little slow this season. For sure the regulars have been looking around new corners, Guy Robertson and Greg Boswell have been climbing superbly well, and several new faces have … Continue reading

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From Our Derbyshire Correspondent

This blog is primarily about Scottish winter climbing, but occasionally news comes in from other areas that is just too good not to share. Scottish winter enthusiast Jeremy Windsor, who lives in Matlock in Derbyshire writes: “Just letting you that … Continue reading

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All Go on Cha-no

The popular early season cliff of Creagan Cha-no on the east side of Cairn Gorm has been busy over the last couple of weeks. In the main, it has been the popular classics such as Anvil Gully, Jenga Buttress and … Continue reading

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Chasing the Ephemeral Receives Banff Award

Several years ago, Tom Prentice from Mica Publishing asked me to write a book describing 50 of the finest Scottish winter routes. It seemed a clear brief at the outset, but the more we discussed it, the concept began to … Continue reading

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Ben Nevis Update

It’s been a difficult season, but as March progressed, good winter climbing was found on Ben Nevis. The problem this winter has been the lack of any base. Any snowfalls have quickly disappeared due to rapid thaws, but the Ben’s … Continue reading

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Meshuga

“It’s been that sort of winter, where you either climb steep rocky routes or, on the assumption that all easier routes have turf, you put up with mediocre conditions,” Andy Nisbet writes. “And if you’re looking for easier new routes, … Continue reading

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Chamonix Scottish Raid

Chamonix-based guides, Matt Helliker and Job Bracey had a very successful four-day visit to Scotland at the end of February. With little knowledge of conditions, they headed up to Stob Coire nan Lochan on their first day (February 27) and … Continue reading

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Slovenian Exchange

From February 12 to 19, eight Slovenian climbers visited Scotland and teamed up with British climbers to sample the ‘delights’ of Scottish winter. They caught the end of the February cold snap and enjoyed excellent mixed climbing for the first … Continue reading

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High and Steep on The Ben

Friday night’s snowfall fell with little wind and left a thick coat of snow on Ben Nevis. It snowed continuously on Saturday so the mountain now looks very wintry. On the classic routes, heavy snow over bare terrain made for … Continue reading

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Skye Winter Festival Report

The seventh Skye Winter Festival was another great success. A short bout of winter at the beginning of the two-week event saw five new routes before the meet resorted to more traditional Cuillin games for the next ten days. Local … Continue reading

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