Category Archives: Commentary

Meshuga

“It’s been that sort of winter, where you either climb steep rocky routes or, on the assumption that all easier routes have turf, you put up with mediocre conditions,” Andy Nisbet writes. “And if you’re looking for easier new routes, … Continue reading

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Chamonix Scottish Raid

Chamonix-based guides, Matt Helliker and Job Bracey had a very successful four-day visit to Scotland at the end of February. With little knowledge of conditions, they headed up to Stob Coire nan Lochan on their first day (February 27) and … Continue reading

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Slovenian Exchange

From February 12 to 19, eight Slovenian climbers visited Scotland and teamed up with British climbers to sample the ‘delights’ of Scottish winter. They caught the end of the February cold snap and enjoyed excellent mixed climbing for the first … Continue reading

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High and Steep on The Ben

Friday night’s snowfall fell with little wind and left a thick coat of snow on Ben Nevis. It snowed continuously on Saturday so the mountain now looks very wintry. On the classic routes, heavy snow over bare terrain made for … Continue reading

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Skye Winter Festival Report

The seventh Skye Winter Festival was another great success. A short bout of winter at the beginning of the two-week event saw five new routes before the meet resorted to more traditional Cuillin games for the next ten days. Local … Continue reading

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Good Going on Mitre Ridge

In a season that has consistently given difficult and demanding conditions, as well as periods when winter climbing has not been possible at all, it is pleasing to have news of an enjoyable ascent of a major classic. “Myself and … Continue reading

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Snow At Last!

Saturday’s (January 28) snowfall brought many of the higher cliffs into winter condition at the weekend. Ben Nevis was busy with many of the Early Season favorites such as Gargoyle Wall, The Clanger, Cutlass and Sidewinder seeing ascents. Notable ascents … Continue reading

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Topsy-Turvy

The topsy-turvy season continues. A brief thaw on January 3 followed by a dry cold snap was not the best recipe for good winter climbing. The Scottish mountains are unusually dry at the moment and the freeze thaws should be … Continue reading

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Cat and Mouse

The cat and mouse game of finding good winter climbing conditions continues. The forecast icy blast on New Years Day promised much for January 2, but the snowfall was significantly less than predicted and mainly limited to the Cairngorms and … Continue reading

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Blink And You Miss It

“Blink and You Miss It!” Mark Chadwick exclaimed on Facebook after making a well timed ascent of an attractively rimed Auricle (VI,7) in Coire an Lochain with Duncan Hodgson. Following the Christmas Day thaw and Boxing Day storm, winter conditions … Continue reading

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