Category Archives: Commentary

Duncan Tunstall (1962 – 2022)

My friend Duncan Tunstall died last month. Duncan lived with an inoperable brain tumour for 20 years, but this never stopped him living life to the full. Duncan had huge energy, great imagination, and an unstoppable love for adventure. He … Continue reading

Posted in Commentary | Tagged | Comments Off on Duncan Tunstall (1962 – 2022)

Livingstone On a Roll

It has been a challenging season so far with limited snow during the first part of the winter and a continuous run of storms through January and February. High standard climbing and new route activity has been (literally) thin on … Continue reading

Posted in Commentary, Repeats | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | 4 Comments

How to Report a New Route

Scottish new routes are recorded in the Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal which is published annually. In addition, new route descriptions are stored in a database which forms the basis for SMC guidebooks. The database aims to be comprehensive and currently … Continue reading

Posted in Commentary | Comments Off on How to Report a New Route

January Update

January has been disappointing month for Scottish winter climbers. The weather has been dominated by warm high pressure systems and any snowfall has quickly disappeared with sudden thaws. The dry air and associated wet bulb effect has allowed the remaining … Continue reading

Posted in Commentary, New Routes, Repeats | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Comments Off on January Update

New Winter Season Finally Underway

It’s been a slow start to the Scottish winter season and most of November has been remarkably mild. There were a couple of short bursts of winter at the end of October when snowed up rock routes in the Northern … Continue reading

Posted in Commentary, New Routes | Tagged , , , | Comments Off on New Winter Season Finally Underway

Rick Allen (1954 – 2021)

On 25 July 2021 a series of avalanches swept down the East Flank of K2 taking the life of Rick Allen. In an instant, Britain lost one its finest ever mountaineers. Rick was born in London on 6 November 1954. … Continue reading

Posted in Commentary | Tagged | 5 Comments

2021 Winter Catch Up

Now that winter is over, and lockdown largely behind us, I have summarised activity from January 4 until the end of the season. The Cuillin: Big news from Skye was the first winter ascent of Mongoose Direct (VIII,8) on Sgurr … Continue reading

Posted in Commentary, New Routes, Repeats | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Comments Off on 2021 Winter Catch Up

SMC Journals Now Online

Over the last four years The Scottish Mountaineering Trust have supported a project to scan back copies Scottish Mountaineering Club Journals and make them available to the public on line. They are available on the SMC website here. The Journal … Continue reading

Posted in Commentary, Uncategorized | Tagged , | Comments Off on SMC Journals Now Online

New Winter Season Finally Underway

It’s been an unusually slow start to the Scottish winter season. Normally by the second half of November winter climbing is in full swing, but temperatures have been higher than usual and the weather very unsettled. Winter routes were climbed … Continue reading

Posted in Commentary, New Routes | Tagged , , , , , , , | 3 Comments

Updated Mini Guidebook to Creagan Cha-no

Just in time for the new winter season, the Scottish Mountaineering Club have published a new edition of their mini-guide to the easily accessible Creagan Cha-no on the east side of Cairn Gorm. The guide is fully comprehensive and includes … Continue reading

Posted in Commentary | Tagged , | Comments Off on Updated Mini Guidebook to Creagan Cha-no