Category Archives: Commentary

Topsy-Turvy

The topsy-turvy season continues. A brief thaw on January 3 followed by a dry cold snap was not the best recipe for good winter climbing. The Scottish mountains are unusually dry at the moment and the freeze thaws should be … Continue reading

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Cat and Mouse

The cat and mouse game of finding good winter climbing conditions continues. The forecast icy blast on New Years Day promised much for January 2, but the snowfall was significantly less than predicted and mainly limited to the Cairngorms and … Continue reading

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Blink And You Miss It

“Blink and You Miss It!” Mark Chadwick exclaimed on Facebook after making a well timed ascent of an attractively rimed Auricle (VI,7) in Coire an Lochain with Duncan Hodgson. Following the Christmas Day thaw and Boxing Day storm, winter conditions … Continue reading

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Winter on The Sentinel

This winter continues to be a frustrating one. A cold snap before Christmas saw Sophie Grace Chapell and I heading for the Southern Sector of Lochnagar. The buttresses on the left side corrie have a westerly aspect, which makes them … Continue reading

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Lean Times in Raeburn’s Gully

Before the high pressure properly set in at the beginning of December there were some fine days with cool nights. Winter climbing looked pretty hopeless, but the deep gullies high in the Cairngorms kept a little snow and ice. Several … Continue reading

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New Winter Season Underway

Winter has arrived on the Scottish mountains. Andy Nisbet and Steve Perry were first off the mark on Friday November 4 with an ascent of the classic Fingers Ridge in Coire an t-Sneachda. They were fortunate that it started to … Continue reading

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James Edwards (1976 – 2016)

Scottish climbing lost another much-loved figure in August after James Edwards slipped and fell in the Fisherfield mountains. James was setting up a radio relay station for the Wilderness Challenge on behalf of the Dundonnell Mountain Rescue Team, who then … Continue reading

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Des Rubens (1952 – 2016)

In late June, the Scottish climbing community were shocked to hear of the death of Des Rubens in the Alps. Des was one of the most energetic and likeable activists on the Scottish scene and many climbers were deeply saddened … Continue reading

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Chasing The Ephemeral

As soon as the second edition of Ben Nevis – Britain’s Highest Mountain (which I co-authored with Ken Crocket) was published in 2009, Tom Prentice asked me whether I would like to write a book about Scottish winter climbing. The … Continue reading

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Visit from Italy

I receive all sorts of correspondence for scottshwinter.com but the following email from February 14 made me smile… “Hello, I apologize for my English, I’m Renzo Italian mountain guide crown have been to you for a tour with friend Martin, … Continue reading

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