Scottishwinter.com

Pete Macpherson on the second ascent of Steam Train (VII,7) on Ben Nevis. This striking line takes the big corner between Orient Express and Newbigging’s 80-Minute Route on the First Platform. (Photo Guy Robertson)

On April 26, Guy Robertson and Pete Macpherson visited Ben Nevis. They had their eye on an objective higher up the mountain, but with the big routes buried under thick unstable snow, they opted for a safer low level option and made the second ascent of Steam Train which they thought weighed in at about VII,7

Steam Train was first climbed as a summer route by Doug Hawthorn and Noel Williams in July 1984 and graded HVS. Dave MacLeod and visiting US climber Alicia Hudson made the first winter ascent in 2007 and graded the route VI,7.

“It looks like Dave started up The Ramp and missed the first pitch of Steam Train,” Guy told me. “This was a notch harder than the top corner, so the grades make sense. It’s definitely a quality wee route and a good option when the weather and/or snow are conditions unfriendly!”

Pete Benson climbing the challenging second pitch of Nevermore (X,10) on Lochnagar during the fourth attempt in March 2013. On this occcasion, extreme cold and dwindling daylight forced retreat two pitches above. The first ascent of this highly significant route finally fell to Nick Bullock and Guy Robertson several weeks later. (Photo Guy Robertson)

On April 8, Nick Bullock and Guy Robertson put to bed one of the last great problems on Lochnagar with the first winter ascent of Nevermore on the Tough-Brown Face. This rarely climbed summer E2 was first climbed by Dougie Dinwoodie and Bob Smith in August 1981 and takes a direct central route up the face between Post Mortem and Mort.

Pete Benson and Guy Robertson were the inspiration behind this climb. They made three attempts with Pete Macpherson, but were repeatedly turned back by the extreme difficulty of the second pitch. When Pete Benson finally succeeded on climbing this clean during their third attempt in March 2012 (a pitch thought to be worth IX,10 in its own right), they were shut down by a rapid thaw on the fifth and final pitch.

For their fourth attempt this March, Pete and Guy roped in Nick Bullock, but ferocious cold and dwindling daylight forced another retreat from high on the climb. Guy and Nick probed the fifth pitch, but both climbed back down unwilling to commit to the difficult initial roof.

On their fifth attempt on April 8, Pete was unable to join the team, but Guy and Nick were highly focused. They both knew that this was their moment, and they would either climb the route that day or not at all. Nick led the challenging second pitch leaving Guy the crucial fifth pitch. After some hesitation, Guy pulled over the roof, but on the moves above, with still no protection in place except for below the roof, he fell. With the on-sight lost, he handed over the ropes to Nick who soon passed Guy’s highpoint and pushed on into the unknown.

“The climbing difficulties above the second overlap increased,” Nick wrote later. “There was no more gear until the pitch and the angle eased. I took a long time as the technicalities were brain-ache inducing, stomach churning – the prospect of falling now slowed me – terror was the tang of battery terminals licked.” Incredibly Nick kept his cool together and a winter ascent of Nevermore was finally a reality.

“I’m astounded to get the route finally in the bag, “ Guy told me. Although Nick and Guy share the honours as the first ascensionists, they have both been quick to acknowledge that Nevermore was very much a team effort with considerable input from the two Pete’s – Benson and Macpherson.

The significance of this ascent goes far beyond Lochnagar and the Tough-Brown Face. Nevermore was graded X,10 – a significant step up from the dozen or so Grade IX first ascents that have been climbed on-sight. Of course, with the prior attempts, Nevermore was not the perfect on-sight, but although we have a handful of higher graded winter routes in Scotland, they have typically benefitted from pre-inspection, multiple attempts on the crux pitch or knowledge from summer ascents. For me, in a season that stands out for its superlatives, Nevermore is the ascent of the winter. Not only is it technically difficult, bold and committing, but it opens the door to the chilling prospect of on-sight Scottish winter Grade X.

The daunting Slime Wall on Glen Coe’s Buachaille Etive Mor showing the line of Cold Revenge (IX,8). This serious climb, which is based on the summer routes of Bludger’s Revelation and Bloody Crack, is only the second winter route on Slime Wall. (Photo Nick Bullock)

Nick Bullock and Guy Robertson made a significant addition to Buachaille Etive Mor’s Slime Wall on March 27 with the first ascent of Cold Revenge (IX,8).

“We started up the first three pitches of Bludger’s Revelation, then climbed a short corner onto a ramp leading left to Bloody Crack,” Guy told me. “We followed this, and the obvious series of steep grooves above to the top. The route provided six pitches and 200m of climbing in all.

As Nick is getting old (nearly 50) he’s developed a habit of leaving things behind – on this occasion it was his harness, so we made one out of slings and led in blocks. So after he led the entry pitch I led the two main pitches on Bludger’s, the second of which (the Link pitch) was quite serious to start and very precarious. Nick then led the next two pitches, including Bloody Crack. I guess I could have given him a loan of my harness for this, but in my experience those lessons learned the hard way tend to stick for longer. As it turned out he was lucky as it would not have been advisable to fall off the top half of the pitch anyway!”

Roger Webb approaching the imposing Atlantic Wall on Slioch. Over the last 20 years Webb has authored over a dozen new routes on this remote face. With a total height of over 400m it is one of the biggest cliffs in Scotland. (Photo Pete Macpherson)

Pete Macpherson and Roger Webb added a challenging new route in Torridon on March 29.

“Roger and I had a memorable day on Slioch’s impressive Atlantic Wall on Good Friday,” Pete told me. “Last time I climbed with Roger was about six years ago when we had a massive day in Beinn Dearg Mor so it was good to get back out with the ‘North-West Connoisseur’ himself. We left the car at 5.30am in daylight and made the longish approach along the shores of Loch Maree then up to the crag.

I can’t believe I have never been to this crag before – it’s a cracker! There are 250m of steep sandstone broken by three or four terraces topped by a further 200m of Grade II scrambling which takes you to the very summit of the mountain.

We decided to do a line up the right side of the crag starting up an obvious corner-line followed by chimneys and walls totally direct all the way to the summit. The first two pitches proved to be the crux with strenuous, and at times quite bold, climbing with bomber turf just when you needed it. The climbing eased afterwards but stayed interesting all the way up the remaining four pitches.

On the top half of the route we had the sun on our backs, which was bliss, and we topped out to one of the most beautiful sunsets I’ve ever seen over Loch Maree and the Fisherfield Forest hills. Overall, it was a very relaxing day and a great laugh with Mr Webb. We called the route ‘Yggdrasil’ which is a sacred tree from Norse mythology and gave it VIII,8, although I find sandstone quite hard to grade. But more importantly, I can’t emphasis enough, how cool this crag is!”

Despite Pete’s casual description, the long approach and descent makes any route on Slioch a major undertaking. Nevertheless, Roger has had a good late season spell on the mountain. A couple of weeks earlier (March 16), he visited the cliff with Guy Robertson and made the first ascent of Morgane (VII,8) the prominent corner-line on the left side of the wall, which joins the upper section of Katabasis.

Greg Boswell pulling through the crux roof of Mort (IX,9) on Lochnagar during the second ascent. “After some huffing and puffing and some woeful whimpering… ‘I don’t know if I can do this,’ and ‘I’m all idea-ed out,’ I eventually unlocked a crazy sequence that allowed me to cross over the huge prominent fin that defines this route.” (Photo Nick Bullock)

On February 22, Greg Boswell, Guy Robertson and Nick Bullock pulled off one of Scotland’s the most prized winter repeats with the second winter ascent of Mort (IX,9) on the Tough-Brown Face of Lochnagar. The 1995 SMC guidebook to the cliff described Mort as a challenge for the next generation, but it was the old guard in the shape of Brian Davison, Andy Nisbet and Dave McGimpsey who claimed one of the mountain’s greatest winter prizes in January 2000.

Mort, which takes a prominent line through the centre of the damp and vegetated overlapping boiler-plate walls of the Tough-Brown Face, was first climbed by Mike Forbes and Mike Rennie in 1967. They used ten points of aid, but the route was free climbed by Dougie Dinwoodie and Bob Smith nine years later and graded E1. Nowadays it sees no more than one or two ascents each summer and is thought to be at the upper end of its grade. As the most prominent line through the Tough-Brown Face it was an obvious, if futuristic winter challenge, and was first tried by Colin MacLean, Nisbet and Davison in January 1985. The date is significant as the only route of comparable difficult at the time was Guerdon Grooves on Buachaille Etive Mor, which had been climbed, by Arthur Paul and Dave Cuthbertson the previous winter. MacLean led the first hard pitch, using two rest points above the big roof, which is the summer crux, and reached the belay ledge after five hours. Nisbet and Davison were too cold to lead through, so MacLean continued in the lead but he reached a blank section about 15m from easy ground and retreated. Although they had failed, the attempt was an eye-opener and Nisbet and MacLean were quick to capitalise on their experience. Over the following weeks they made the first winter ascents of Unicorn in Glen Coe and Winter Needle on the Shelter Stone.

All three climbers returned to Mort during the following winters. Davison estimates that he visited Lochnagar 18 times with MacLean to try the route, but it was rarely in condition. In March 1992, Davison and Nisbet made an attempt which ended after Davison took a 20m fall over the crux roof, which he had just free climbed, landing at Nisbet’s feet. As the number of people climbing high standard mixed routes was increasing, it became clear that the route was not going to hold out forever. In December 1999, Alan Mullin made a spirited attempt with Guy Robertson. Climbing on sight in difficult powder conditions, Mullin regained almost regained MacLean’s 1985 highpoint on the third pitch, but was again stopped by the blank nature of the rock.

Just after New Year 2000, Lochnagar came into superb condition. Most importantly for an ascent of Mort, there was a thin smear of ice above the blank section, which had stopped MacLean and Mullin on their previous attempts. Early on Saturday January 15, Nisbet climbed up to the first stance and Davison led through on the critical second pitch. Onlookers were highly impressed as Davison pulled swiftly through the roof, and stepped left around a rib into a vertical groove. The only protection on this section was a warthog and a poor tied-off blade peg and Davison reached the belay ledge after two hours in the lead. On the third pitch, Nisbet took a couple of 5m falls at the blank section, before handing the lead to Davison who managed to place a poor peg and reach a small turf placement and the ice smear above. The ice was thin and almost vertical, but after 15m Davison reached the belay ledge. Nisbet and McGimpsey came up in the dark, and it was then a formality for Nisbet to lead the final pitch to easy ground.

Mort was graded IX,9 and was rated by Nisbet as the hardest route he had ever climbed, both from a technical and seriousness aspect. The ascent was met with delight through the Scottish climbing scene. It was felt to be entirely appropriate that Davison and Nisbet, who had been associated with the route for so long, should finally climb the route.

The story of the second ascent last Friday is not mine to tell, so I recommend reading Greg’s graphic first-hand account on his blog. In summary, Guy led the first pitch, with Greg taking the honours with a superb lead of the crux pitch. Unfortunately Greg took a fall when a block came out below the roof, but he completed the pitch cleanly on his second attempt. Guy then completed the route with a smooth lead of the third pitch, which although still being solid Grade VIII, turned out to be more reasonable than its reputation may have suggested.

It was brilliant to hear Guy confirm afterwards that Mort fully deserved both its Grade IX rating and its place as one of the landmarks in the history of Scottish winter climbing.

Greg Boswell nearing the end of the main groove on the third pitch of Fancy Free (VII,9) on Lochnagar. This route forms a trio with Footloose (VII,8) and Mantichore (VII,7) as easily accessible technical routes with a choice of descents – either abseil or scramble down the easy lower section of Central Buttress. (Photo Guy Robertson)

Pete Benson, Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson succeeded on an excellent technical new route on Lochnagar yesterday before the thaw set in.

“We climbed the obvious groove line parallel to and left of Footloose on Central Buttress to give Fancy Free (VII,9),” Guy told me. “We had intended on bigger things, but the state of the snowpack was such that we couldn’t proceed past the first aid box (there was a good metre of wet slab sitting on a further two layers below!).

Pete took us up the first pitch of Mantichore, from where I led a short traverse left to climb a short and very technical corner to enter the main groove line.  Fortunately, the protection in the corner was fail-safe as the climbing was extremely precarious (we all fell off!).  Greg then took the reigns and swiftly dispatched the big groove, which provided an outstanding third pitch.

I’ve had my eye on the line for long enough, so nice to get it done.  It’s an excellent little test piece, which will be in condition with a freeze, and dusting of snow, so it should get some attention I reckon. It’s useful to have good climbing that is accessible in the most treacherous of avalanche conditions.”

Jason Currie on the first ascent of Immortal Memory (IX,9) on Beinn Eighe. “To climb a completely new winter-only line up the middle of Far East Wall – for me this was hitherto the stuff of fantasy,” Guy Robertson wrote later. (Photo Guy Robertson)

I’m beginning to lose count of the number of difficult new Guy Robertson routes this season, as they are becoming an almost weekly occurrence! As if to prove my point, Guy snatched another outstanding new route on Beinn Eighe with Jason Currie on January 26 – Immortal Memory (IX,9), a winter-only line on the Far East Wall.

“We had originally planned to go somewhere a bit different,” Guy told me, “but the bad weather forecasted for later in the day was enough to put us off. I was pretty sure that Beinn Eighe would be in as good if not better condition that on my previous visit (for Shoot the Breeze) and the Far East Wall area seemed as likely as anywhere to be sheltered from strong westerly winds.  This proved an accurate assessment, and we arrived at dawn to find the Far East Wall pretty much plastered from top to bottom, and no wind at the base of the routes. The route in question takes the very prominent line between Colgarra and King of the Swingers, and was named Immortal Memory, in part as that is exactly what its given us, but also as a nod to the Bard himself (it was Burn’s Night the night before our ascent).

When we were stood below the line I actually didn’t think it was going to be that hard, which is why I suggested trying it (bearing in mind Jas doesn’t get out much these days).  I could hardly have been more wrong – two of the three pitches were long, sustained and technically quite hard – very strenuous around the various overhangs – although the protection was generally fail-safe.  I think a grade of IX,9 would apply in this case, though it’s always hard to tell when questing into the unknown.  Most importantly, the climbing was amongst the very best of the best on Beinn Eighe, being as steep and intimidating as any of the routes, but very dirty and vegetated in places so a proper natural winter line.  It was definitely up there with the best adventures I’ve ever had in Scotland – really pushed to the physical limit and hanging in the balance right to the end!”

Greg Boswell seconding the big arête on pitch two during the first winter ascent of Shoot the Breeze (IX,8) on Beinn Eighe’s West Central Wall. (Photo Guy Robertson)

Guy Robertson and Greg Boswell made the first winter ascent of Shoot the Breeze on Beinn Eighe’s West Central Wall yesterday (January 15). This spectacular summer E2 was first climbed by Andy Nisbet and Gill Ollerhead in May 1992. The SMC Northern Highlands South guidebook describes it as ‘a stunning route, one of the wildest in Scotland, with well protected crux and a Troll Wall ambiance.’ A perfect objective then, for the all-conquering Robertson-Boswell team!

”It was a truly outstanding route climbed in probably the best mixed conditions I’ve encountered up there,“ Guy told me.  “As there’s not much in the way of turf on this route, and very little ice, it really needs to be properly plastered to justify a winter attempt.  The whole wall was white from top to bottom, which I’ve never seen before, so all the thundering rain on the tent the night before was exactly what was needed.  I’m not sure about the grade – possibly a soft IX,8 – it’s a tricky one for sure.  Pretty much every move was Tech 8 after the first few metres, and the protection was generally superb.  However, there was a very precarious section above a poor Pecker at about 20m on pitch 2 where a fall would probably have broken something, so maybe IX is right.  Who cares – it’s the quality that counts and this one is reeking of it!”

Andy Inglis finding a way through the fourth pitch during the first ascent of The Rebirth of Cool (VII,7), on the Upper Cliff of Coire Ghranda on Beinn Dearg. (Photo Guy Robertson)

Guy Robertson and Andy Inglis added a good new route to Coire Grandha’s Upper Cliff on Beinn Dearg on December 17. Guy has very made this rarely visited cliff very much his own with a string of impressive routes in recent years. “Unsurprisingly this is one of the places we still need to get pictures for the book [a new volume on Scottish mountain routes], and unsurprisingly we got a fantastic new route!” Guy told me.

“The Rebirth of Cool (VII,7) takes the easiest line up the steep and complex area of overhanging grooves and bulges immediately right of Tickled Rib, another of my own routes from ages back.  The climbing was typical of the crag – never that steep, but never easy, and a superb mix of thin ice, turf and rock.  For a while I thought that – unusually for this cliff – the whole route was going to be well-protected, but a sustained section sketchiness a good few metres out from a tied off peg on the third pitch soon put paid to that.  As ever, it was great to get a rare opportunity on a day that many folk seemed to have written off as too warm.”

Greg Boswell on the second pitch of Vapouriser (VIII,8) on Creag an Dubh Loch. The line can be clearly seen cutting up directly through Vertigo Wall and finishing up and left through the obvious right-trending slot above the headwall. “Brilliant climbing,” Robertson wrote afterwards. “It’s steeper, icier and more sustained than the original Vertigo Wall.” (Photo Guy Robertson)

When Guy Robertson texted me earlier this week asking for Henning Wackerhage’s contact details, I knew it could be to ask about only one thing. The heavy snowfall last week, followed by the weekend’s mini thaw, had set up Creag an Dubh Loch beautifully for winter climbing, and two seasons ago Henning had uncovered a potential spectacular finish to the ultra-classic Vertigo Wall.

Guy visited the cliff with Greg Boswell on December 11, and the result was Vapouriser (VIII,8), a stunning five-pitch icy mixed line cutting up directly through Vertigo Wall, taking part of Henning’s More Vertigo Finish, before finishing up the obvious right-trending slot above the headwall.

“We had slept in and we were late,” Guy explains on his blog.” On snouting the mouth of the Dubh Loch’s Central Gully we saw a team of three climbers ensconsed directly below our target.  One of them was racked up and already setting to work. But closer inspection revealed they were not for exploring the scintillating trail of overhanging ice vapours swirling upwards behind them. And at that very moment our hearts skipped, the air around us crackled with anticipation and the wheels of fate ground slowly into motion.

Eight hours later, perched high on a little diving board platform, 100m of perfectly still dark vapour space sat silent below me.  As Greg cleared away deep snow for the final belay, putting the finishing touches to one of Scotland’s great routes, my torch light illuminated a steady plume of sparkling spindrift diamonds falling away out into the night behind me.”

Make no mistake – first ascents of Scottish ice routes of this quality and difficulty are extremely rare. “Suffice to say that I’d put this up there with routes like Minus One Direct and Extasy for sheer quality,” Guy told me. “It is undoubtedly one of the best icy mixed routes in Scotland. The climbing was an exquisite combination of thin ice and steep rock, with a distinctly cerebral element throughout – there simply are not enough adjectives to describe how good this route is – the exposure on the top pitch was quite ludicrous!