Monthly Archives: January 2018

No Country For Old Men

“What do you climb if you’re old, sick and injured but still have to do new routes?” Andy Nisbet writes. “Slime Wall maybe? No, the routes are a bit short. Beinn Damh yes! Low grades an hour and a half … Continue reading

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Under The Radar Screen

Despite the consistently cold weather, new route activity has been a little slow this season. For sure the regulars have been looking around new corners, Guy Robertson and Greg Boswell have been climbing superbly well, and several new faces have … Continue reading

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The Holy Grail

If you turn to page 97 of the SMC’s Glen Coe guidebook there is a superb picture by Alan Leary of the top pitch of Shibboleth on Buachaille Etive Mor. Look more closely and to the right of the climber … Continue reading

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En Garde!

I was rather surprised to hear that Murdoch Jamieson and Iain Small climbed The Duel (IX,9) on Stob Coire nan Lochan before Christmas (December 16) and found it rather testing. Now The Duel is a hard route for sure, but … Continue reading

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New Routes on SCNL

Pete Davies, Helen Rennard and Donie O’Sullivan have been exploring the upper right wall of SC Gully on Stob Coire nan Lochan in Glen Coe and have come away with three good new two-pitch mixed climbs. All three routes start … Continue reading

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Coigach Twin Pack

Iain Young and John Higham made a couple of productive forays to Coigach in the Far North-West recently. Iain takes up the story: “I had missed out on the first cold spell in December and was beginning to worry that … Continue reading

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Marmalade – First Winter Ascent

On January 7, Michael Barnard and John MacLeod had a fine day making the first winter ascent of Marmalade (VI,6) on D Gully Buttress on Buachaille Etive Mor. “With the cold weather and snow down to lower levels, it seemed a … Continue reading

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New Routes on Am Bodach

Andy Nelson and Andy Hogarth had a superb day on December 30 climbing two new routes on the north side of Am Bodach above Glen Coe “At NN169580 there are two buttresses,” Andy explains. “They can be accessed easily by … Continue reading

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Book Review – Sanctuary in the Extreme

I was sent an interesting book to review recently. John Proctor’s Sanctuary in the Extreme is a very personal account of transformation from a tough inner city existence through to finding fulfillment in a life of climbing. This book is … Continue reading

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Eighties Rules

“The problem with writing a book like Chasing the Ephemeral,” I reflected, “is that everyone expects you to to make optimum route choices all of the time.” I was half way up the first pitch of a new line on … Continue reading

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