Monthly Archives: January 2018

Book Review – Snow

After January’s heavy snowfalls, and with more cold weather on the way, it is an appropriate time to review this useful little booklet written by Robert Bolognesi, an avalanche specialist working in Switzerland. The book was first published in France … Continue reading

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Pobble – Second Winter Ascent

Helen Rennard and Ben Silvestre made the second winter ascent of Pobble (VII,7) on Foinaven on January 20. This 160m-long summer VS is located on Lord Reay’s Seat, a cliff that does not hold winter conditions well and can be … Continue reading

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The God Delusion – Fourth Ascent

Andy Inglis and Adam Russell made the fourth ascent of the Northern Highlands test-piece The God Delusion (IX,9) on January 20. This seven-pitch voyage up the awe-inspiring Giant’s Wall on Beinn Bhan in Applecross, which was first climbed by Guy … Continue reading

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No Country For Old Men

“What do you climb if you’re old, sick and injured but still have to do new routes?” Andy Nisbet writes. “Slime Wall maybe? No, the routes are a bit short. Beinn Damh yes! Low grades an hour and a half … Continue reading

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Under The Radar Screen

Despite the consistently cold weather, new route activity has been a little slow this season. For sure the regulars have been looking around new corners, Guy Robertson and Greg Boswell have been climbing superbly well, and several new faces have … Continue reading

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The Holy Grail

If you turn to page 97 of the SMC’s Glen Coe guidebook there is a superb picture by Alan Leary of the top pitch of Shibboleth on Buachaille Etive Mor. Look more closely and to the right of the climber … Continue reading

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En Garde!

I was rather surprised to hear that Murdoch Jamieson and Iain Small climbed The Duel (IX,9) on Stob Coire nan Lochan before Christmas (December 16) and found it rather testing. Now The Duel is a hard route for sure, but … Continue reading

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New Routes on SCNL

Pete Davies, Helen Rennard and Donie O’Sullivan have been exploring the upper right wall of SC Gully on Stob Coire nan Lochan in Glen Coe and have come away with three good new two-pitch mixed climbs. All three routes start … Continue reading

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Coigach Twin Pack

Iain Young and John Higham made a couple of productive forays to Coigach in the Far North-West recently. Iain takes up the story: “I had missed out on the first cold spell in December and was beginning to worry that … Continue reading

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Marmalade – First Winter Ascent

On January 7, Michael Barnard and John MacLeod had a fine day making the first winter ascent of Marmalade (VI,6) on D Gully Buttress on Buachaille Etive Mor. “With the cold weather and snow down to lower levels, it seemed a … Continue reading

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