Category Archives: Topos

Am Bodach Ice

To cheer us all up during this lengthy spell of wild and windy weather, I thought I’d post a topo that Ruth Taylor sent me the other day. She visited the crag with Andy Turner on 24th January 2010 and … Continue reading

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Creagan Cha-no – Arch Wall Topo

Following on from the Creagan Cha-no – Anvil Buttress Topo post, the photo above shows the routes on Arch Wall. This wall typically provides two-pitch routes up to 70m long, with pride of place going to the eponymous Arch Wall … Continue reading

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Creagan Cha-no – Anvil Buttress Topo

Several people have asked me for a topo of Creagan Cha-no, the recently developed winter cliff on Cairngorm. The photo shows the Anvil Buttress area, and a topo of the Arch Wall area will be covered by a second post. … Continue reading

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Interesting Route on No. 4

Last Sunday (December 16), James Edwards was tempted away from his beloved Northern Highlands to climb in the Northern Corries, with a surprisingly prominent new route in mind. Unfortunately, it wasn’t to be, but I’ll let James tell the story: … Continue reading

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Glen Prosen Ice

On Saturday December 17, Henning Wackerhage and Arno Alpi took a chance, and visited North Craig on Mayar in Glen Prosen. This glen is rarely visited by climbers, and lies south of Glen Clova. Their optimism paid off, as the … Continue reading

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West Central Gully… New Line Shocker!

I received an intriguing email from Pete Benson last week… Hi Simon I have just been looking through my photos of last year with Guy [Robertson] of West Central Gully [on Beinn Eighe], and he was confused. “Did you not … Continue reading

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Darth Vader – Alternative Finishes

Simon Yearsley sent me the above photo the other day asking me to clarify the finish to Darth Vader, so I’ve labelled the exits of DV and its surrounding climbs as they were climbed on the first ascents. I suspect … Continue reading

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Satyr – First Winter Ascent

Big news from Glen Coe is the outstanding first winter ascent of Satyr by Donald King and Andy Nelson on December 7. Satyr was first climbed in September 1973 by the great Sheffield-based climber Paul Nunn together with Jack Street … Continue reading

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New Routes on The Douglas Boulder

Nick Bullock has been busy on the front face of The Douglas Boulder on Ben Nevis. With Matt Helliker he made the first winter ascent of Nutless with a new Direct Start at VI,7 and the pair also added Rutless … Continue reading

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Another Way up Orion Face

On Sunday March 21, Tony Stone, Iain Small and I linked together a series of grooves up the right side of Orion Face before finishing up the very steep headwall between Orion Directissima and Slav Route.  We climbed the first … Continue reading

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