New Routes on The Douglas Boulder

Nick Bullock's new lines on the front face of The Douglas Boulder, Ben Nevis. Red - Nutless (VI,7) first winter ascent, Blue - Rutless (VII,8) a direct finish to Gutless (Yellow) and Green - Feckless (VI,7). (Topo Nick Bullock)

Nick Bullock has been busy on the front face of The Douglas Boulder on Ben Nevis. With Matt Helliker he made the first winter ascent of Nutless with a new Direct Start at VI,7 and the pair also added Rutless (VII,8), a direct finish to Gutless taking a 20-metre overhanging crack and corner.

On Saturday November 27, Nick teamed up with Pete Benson and climbed the first pitch of Gutless on ice, then broke out right up a shallow groove (ice) and then straight up icy grooves to the ledge of North-West Face Route to finish directly up an excellent steep groove on the right of the very steep wall. The result was Feckless (VI,7).

A modern mixed re-appraisal of The Douglas Boulder in winter is well overdue, and as Pete told me, “it’s actually rather a big crag!”

About Simon Richardson

Simon Richardson is a passionate Scottish winter climber
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