Author Archives: Simon Richardson

About Simon Richardson

Simon Richardson is a passionate Scottish winter climber

Diedre of the Sorrows – Early Repeat

Pete Macpherson and Martin Moran added to their long list of cutting edge ascents with an ascent of Diedre of the Sorrows (VIII,8) on Lochnagar’s Tough-Brown Face on January 11. This much-celebrated route was first climbed by Dougie Dinwoodie and … Continue reading

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Twisted – Second Ascent

“Back in November Harry Holmes, Dan Tait and I went into Stob Coire nan Lochan in Glen Coe with the aim of making the second ascent of Twisted, a three-pitch three star VII,7 to the left of Chimney Route put … Continue reading

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Church Door Angels

Donald King, Mike Pescod and Andy Nelson made the first ascent of Angels (VIII,9), an excellent new mixed route on the front face of Church Door Buttress on Bidean nam Bian in Glen Coe on January 13. Conditions were good … Continue reading

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The Tempest On Sighted Again

Greg Boswell, Will Sim, Guy Robertson and Nick Bullock visited Stob Coire nan Lochan in Glen Coe on January 13. “It turned out to be a very successful day,” Greg told me. “Guy and Nick went off and did their … Continue reading

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Avoiding The Sting

Some more details about the three new routes climbed on the right side of Broad Terrace Wall on Creag an Dubh Loch on January 11: First up were Guy Robertson and Greg Boswell who started up the summer line of … Continue reading

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Take the Throne

The first new route climbed on Creag an Dubh Loch’s Broad Terrace Wall on January 11 to be named is Take the Throne by Uisdean Hawthorn and Callum Johnson. This superb looking ice line takes the rib left of Sword … Continue reading

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And Then There Were Eight…

Creag an Dubh Loch’s Broad Terrace Wall is without question the steepest major cliff in the Cairngorms. It rises for 120m of sheer verticality and bewildering exposure above a steep 100m-high lower tier. Normally wet during the summer, ascents of … Continue reading

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Three Breakfasts at Stac an Fharaidh

“Susan Jensen was up for the weekend and we had climbed at Lurchers Crag on the Saturday,” Andy Nisbet writes. “Now we needed somewhere for a quick hit before the weather came in on the Sunday (January 5). OK, I … Continue reading

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Spanish Dinner in Glen Prosen

“Glen Prosen is not often frequented by technical climbers,” states the SMC Cairngorms guide, “but high in the glen is a steep cliff, which is known as South Craig.” On Saturday January 4, Henning Wackerhage and Tim Chappell made the … Continue reading

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Turkish Delight

Malcolm Bass, Helen Rennard and Simon Yearsley had an excellent day on Ben Nevis on Saturday January 4, when they made the first winter ascent of Turkish (VII,7) on Number Five Gully Buttress. “Since climbing Free Range with Jim Higgins … Continue reading

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