Category Archives: New Routes

No Jive Turkeys on Ben Nevis

Posted on December 20, 2019 by Simon Richardson

Jonathan Livesey and Connor Henley added a good new route to Creag Coire na Ciste on Ben Nevis on December 14. Jive Turkey (V,6) starts up a small corner groove 10m downhill from the prominent chocked chimney in the climbers … Continue reading →

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Icy on Cruachan

Posted on December 16, 2019 by Simon Richardson

Stuart McFarlane and Robin Clothier added a good new route to Coire Chat on Ben Cruachan on November 13. One of Nine starts up the icy slabs of Hats Off on the front face of Noe Buttress and continues up … Continue reading →

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The Edge of Profanity – Second Ascent

Posted on December 4, 2019 by Simon Richardson

On November 30, Dave Brookes and Jules Harris put to bed a well-known problem on Creagan Cha-no when they made the first free ascent of The Edge of Profanity. This short, but deceptively steep route, was first climbed early last … Continue reading →

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Dundonnell Face

Posted on November 28, 2019 by Simon Richardson

The night of November 18/19 was the coldest in the recent cool snap and Neil Wilson, Roger Webb and I were lucky enough to be in Torridon. Next morning the turf was brick hard at sea level so we set … Continue reading →

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All Go High Up in the West

Posted on November 27, 2019 by Simon Richardson

Temperatures warmed up during the second half of last week, but on the high crags in the West winter hung on, and some excellent routes were climbed. On Stob Coire an Laoigh, the modern classic Taliballan (V,6) had several ascents … Continue reading →

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Berserker

Posted on November 25, 2019 by Simon Richardson

Jamie Skelton and Dave Almond had an excellent two days climbing in Northern Cairngorms last week that resulted in an early repeat of The Snowpimp (VIII,9) in Coire and Lochain and a new route on Lurcher’s Crag. Berserker (VI,8) takes … Continue reading →

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Early Bird

Posted on November 21, 2019 by Simon Richardson

James Milton and Oonagh Thin made an exploratory visit to The Saddle in Kintail on November 16. Their enterprise paid off with the first ascent of Early Bird (III), a two-pitch ice route on the North-West Face. James takes up … Continue reading →

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Local Hero

Posted on November 20, 2019 by Simon Richardson

November 18 was a cold and settled day across the Highlands and Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson made best use of the opportunity with an excellent new route on the Hayfork Wall on An Teallach. Local Hero (VIII,9) takes the … Continue reading →

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White Walkers

Posted on November 18, 2019 by Simon Richardson

Mark Robson and I took the easy option on Sunday November 17 and arrived late at the Cairn Gorm Ciste car park in the full knowledge that others would be ahead of us and making a trail to Creagan Cha-no. … Continue reading →

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Winter Starts

Posted on November 9, 2019 by Simon Richardson

Winter in the Scottish Highlands started in late October when a cold north-westerly deposited a layer of snow on the West. Conditions were typically early season, with the turf not fully frozen, and the best climbing conditions were found in … Continue reading →

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