Category Archives: Repeats

January Scottish Winter Diary

Posted on February 1, 2020 by Simon Richardson

It’s been a tough January in the Scottish mountains with almost non-stop winds and long periods of thaw. Conditions on the mountains have changed day by day and have often been completely different from east to west. Here is a … Continue reading →

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Trial by Satyr

Posted on December 24, 2019 by Simon Richardson

Dave Almond and Jamie Skelton had an excellent run of routes earlier in December that included the second ascent of Dark Angel (VII,8) in Glen Coe, a near miss on Satyr (IX,9), and a very early repeat of Brass Monkey … Continue reading →

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All Go on Shapeshifter Wall

Posted on December 21, 2019 by Simon Richardson

It’s been busy on Shapeshifter Wall on Lurcher’s Crag in the Cairngorms. The steep three-pitch Shapeshifter (VIII,8) was the brainchild of Steve Perry who made the first ascent with Andy Nisbet and Helen Rennard last January. The route was repeated … Continue reading →

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The Edge of Profanity – Second Ascent

Posted on December 4, 2019 by Simon Richardson

On November 30, Dave Brookes and Jules Harris put to bed a well-known problem on Creagan Cha-no when they made the first free ascent of The Edge of Profanity. This short, but deceptively steep route, was first climbed early last … Continue reading →

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All Go High Up in the West

Posted on November 27, 2019 by Simon Richardson

Temperatures warmed up during the second half of last week, but on the high crags in the West winter hung on, and some excellent routes were climbed. On Stob Coire an Laoigh, the modern classic Taliballan (V,6) had several ascents … Continue reading →

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Berserker

Posted on November 25, 2019 by Simon Richardson

Jamie Skelton and Dave Almond had an excellent two days climbing in Northern Cairngorms last week that resulted in an early repeat of The Snowpimp (VIII,9) in Coire and Lochain and a new route on Lurcher’s Crag. Berserker (VI,8) takes … Continue reading →

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All Go on The Stooee

Posted on November 13, 2019 by Simon Richardson

I was intrigued to find out that Erick Bailot and Dave Kerr climbed The Stooee Chimney on The Stuic on Lochnagar on Sunday November 10. The Stooee Chimney is the obvious central line and was the first route ever attempted … Continue reading →

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Feast of the East – Second Ascent

Posted on March 18, 2019 by Simon Richardson

On March 16, Jamie Skelton and Matt Glenn made the second winter ascent of Feast of the East (VIII,9) on the Eastern Ramparts on Beinn Eighe. The route was first climbed by Andy Nisbet and Gill Ollerhead in May 1992, … Continue reading →

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Boswell Makes Third Ascent of Anubis

Posted on February 4, 2019 by Simon Richardson

Big news from the weekend was the third ascent of Anubis (XII,12) on Ben Nevis by Greg Boswell. The first winter ascent of this overhanging summer E8 on The Comb was made by Dave MacLeod in February 2010. It is … Continue reading →

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Three Excellent Early Repeats

Posted on January 29, 2019 by Simon Richardson

“Having waited for what seemed forever for winter to turn up Simon Frost and myself drove up from Liverpool on January 20,” Dave Almond writes. “After a 4.30am start to walk over to Shelterstone to find it looking black we … Continue reading →

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