Tag Archives: Lochnagar

Lochnagar Update

Posted on December 21, 2011 by Simon Richardson

Fresh from their outstanding success on Stone Temple Pilots on the Shelter Stone, Greg Boswell and Will Sim visited Lochnagar on Sunday December 18. Their intention was to make the second ascent of Crazy Sorrow (IX,10), which received its first … Continue reading →

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Smear Fear

Posted on March 10, 2011 by Simon Richardson

I’ve been watching the ice grow high up on the right side of Eagle Buttress for several weeks now. In summer, the right arête of the Where Eagles Dare headwall (climbed by State of Independence) is delimited in its right … Continue reading →

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New Look Parallel B

Posted on March 9, 2011 by Simon Richardson

Lochnagar has been in good icy condition recently. Polyphemus Gully has seen close to 20 ascents with many teams stating that it is easy Grade IV. Other icy gully lines that have been climbed recently include Parallel Gully A, West … Continue reading →

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Chasing Shadows

Posted on March 5, 2011 by Simon Richardson

One rainy Sunday several Septembers ago, I ran up to Lochnagar and scrambled up Central Buttress. Near the top I found an abandoned rope, tangled around several large blocks, so I coiled it and continued on my way. Once on … Continue reading →

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Eagle-Eyed on Lochnagar

Posted on February 9, 2011 by Simon Richardson

With a strong westerly forecast, Lochnagar was the obvious choice for Sunday February 6. The avalanche report was a little circumspect, but Sandy Simpson and I were confident that Saturday’s re-freeze would have firmed up Friday’s brief thaw. In the … Continue reading →

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Crazy Sorrow – First Winter Ascent!

Posted on January 11, 2011 by Simon Richardson

Big news from a busy weekend was the first winter ascent of Crazy Sorrow on Lochnagar on Sunday January 9 by Guy Robertson and Pete Benson. This summer E4 6a, which takes the roof and crack-line to the right of … Continue reading →

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Black Spout Buttress, Direct Variations

Posted on December 19, 2010 by Simon Richardson

On Wednesday December 15, Dave Almond, Duncan Tunstall and Greg Parsons made a direct ascent of the classic Black Spout Buttress on Lochnagar. Rather than follow the standard line, the trio followed a more direct version of the lower tier … Continue reading →

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Toughing It Out on Lochnagar

Posted on December 18, 2010 by Simon Richardson

On Wednesday December 15, Ross Hewitt and Sandy Simpson made a rare repeat of Tough Guy on Lochangar. The pair attempted this sought-after mixed line on the Tough-Brown face the previous Sunday, but after a late start they ran out … Continue reading →

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Redemption, Lochnagar

Posted on March 17, 2010 by Simon Richardson

Guy Robertson and Pete MacPherson made the second ascent of Redemption (VIII,7) on Tuesday March 16. Heavily hoared conditions on The Stack meant it was more like Patagonia than Scotland! They found four runners on the entire route. The rime … Continue reading →

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