Monthly Archives: January 2014

The Tempest On Sighted Again

Greg Boswell, Will Sim, Guy Robertson and Nick Bullock visited Stob Coire nan Lochan in Glen Coe on January 13. “It turned out to be a very successful day,” Greg told me. “Guy and Nick went off and did their … Continue reading

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Avoiding The Sting

Some more details about the three new routes climbed on the right side of Broad Terrace Wall on Creag an Dubh Loch on January 11: First up were Guy Robertson and Greg Boswell who started up the summer line of … Continue reading

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Take the Throne

The first new route climbed on Creag an Dubh Loch’s Broad Terrace Wall on January 11 to be named is Take the Throne by Uisdean Hawthorn and Callum Johnson. This superb looking ice line takes the rib left of Sword … Continue reading

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And Then There Were Eight…

Creag an Dubh Loch’s Broad Terrace Wall is without question the steepest major cliff in the Cairngorms. It rises for 120m of sheer verticality and bewildering exposure above a steep 100m-high lower tier. Normally wet during the summer, ascents of … Continue reading

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Three Breakfasts at Stac an Fharaidh

“Susan Jensen was up for the weekend and we had climbed at Lurchers Crag on the Saturday,” Andy Nisbet writes. “Now we needed somewhere for a quick hit before the weather came in on the Sunday (January 5). OK, I … Continue reading

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Spanish Dinner in Glen Prosen

“Glen Prosen is not often frequented by technical climbers,” states the SMC Cairngorms guide, “but high in the glen is a steep cliff, which is known as South Craig.” On Saturday January 4, Henning Wackerhage and Tim Chappell made the … Continue reading

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Turkish Delight

Malcolm Bass, Helen Rennard and Simon Yearsley had an excellent day on Ben Nevis on Saturday January 4, when they made the first winter ascent of Turkish (VII,7) on Number Five Gully Buttress. “Since climbing Free Range with Jim Higgins … Continue reading

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The Brass Monkey Repeated

Neil Adams and Andy Inglis pulled off an important second ascent on Ben Nevis January 1, when they repeated The Brass Monkey (VII,8) on the east side of Tower Ridge. This imposing corner which bounds the right side of Echo … Continue reading

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A Dog’s Life

“When it’s been raining cats and dogs, where else to go but Lurchers Crag,” Andy Nisbet suggests. “In fact the idea was born when Matt Griffin sent me a photo of the K9 area in order to ask if a … Continue reading

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Sword of Damocles – Second Winter Ascent

The inspirational first winter ascent of The Giant on Creag an Dubh Loch last week, prompted a number of repeat attempts over the weekend of January 4-5. A predicted cold and calmer spell of weather was awkwardly sandwiched between a … Continue reading

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