Category Archives: New Routes

The Chancel First Winter Ascent

Posted on March 21, 2019 by Simon Richardson

Guy Robertson and Andy Inglis pulled off one of the finest climbs of the season on March 18 when they made a first winter ascent based on The Chancel on Beinn a’Bhuird. This five pitch E1 on the West Face … Continue reading →

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Moonpig on Aonach Mor

Posted on March 16, 2019 by Simon Richardson

Strong winds and frequent snowfall have resulted some very dangerous snow conditions recently, especially on the West. On March 8, Graham Wyllie and Cam Bevan visited Coire an Lochain on Aonach Mor. Conditions were tricky, but careful route choice meant … Continue reading →

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Neverthought Arête

Posted on March 14, 2019 by Simon Richardson

Without question, it has been a dismal Scottish winter season. The warm weather through most of the peak winter climbing period in February upset many people’s dreams, and the tragic loss of Andy Nisbet and Steve Perry coupled with the … Continue reading →

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Heavy Flak on Beinn Eighe

Posted on February 19, 2019 by Simon Richardson

Murdoch Jamieson and Uisdean Hawthorn pulled of a notable first winter ascent when they climbed Heavy Flak on Beinn Eighe on February 2. This summer E1 on the Eastern Ramparts was first climbed by Geoff Cohen and Murray Hamilton in … Continue reading →

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Blackmount Wall

Posted on February 18, 2019 by Simon Richardson

The heavy snowfall at the end of January fell without any wind and coated the Scottish mountains with a uniform layer of powder snow. This was a boon for skiers, but for classic winter climbing it needed to consolidate a … Continue reading →

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Far East Vishnu

Posted on February 14, 2019 by Simon Richardson

On January 30, Murdoch Jamieson and Guy Robertson added an excellent winter-only line on the Far East Wall of Beinn Eighe. One Man’s Mountain takes the obvious left-facing corner right of Vishnu. “Guy had tried it many years ago with Pete … Continue reading →

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Skye Twin Pack for Sakano and Bishop

Posted on February 5, 2019 by Simon Richardson

Masa Sakano and Tom Bishop had two excellent days climbing on Skye at the end of last week, which resulted in the ascent of an unclimbed gully in Coire Scamadal and a new Direct Start to the rarely climbed Franklands’s … Continue reading →

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A Little Line on Nevis

Posted on January 30, 2019 by Simon Richardson

The title of this post comes from an email that Toby Archer sent to me last week regarding a possible new line on the left wall of Number Three Gully climbed on January 4 when conditions all over the Highlands … Continue reading →

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Hare Restorer in Corrie Fee

Posted on January 27, 2019 by Simon Richardson

“Pamela Millar and I were out in Coire Fee yesterday (January 24)” Martin Holland writes. “We ended up high in the corrie and climbed a line starting below and right of The Comb and finishing to it’s right. There was … Continue reading →

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Rudge and Wood’s Route

Posted on January 26, 2019 by Simon Richardson

On January 19 Doug Bartholomew and Michael Barnard made the probable first winter ascent of ‘Rudge and Wood’s Route’ on Sgurr nan Gillean. This narrow dyke on the West Face of the Second Pinnacle on Pinnacle Ridge was first climbed … Continue reading →

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