Category Archives: New Routes

Dark Angel on the Church Door

Posted on February 13, 2018 by Simon Richardson

The clean-cut features and deep cracks of Bidean nan Bian’s Church Door Buttress have been a happy hunting ground for Scottish mixed climbers over the last couple of seasons. Un Poco Loco (VII,7), which finds its way through the great … Continue reading →

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Lurching Towards One Hundred Routes

Posted on February 8, 2018 by Simon Richardson

“OK, you need to count variations to make that true, but the three figures for Lurcher’s Crag has come a lot closer this week during snowy conditions when all the steep walls have been rimed,” Andy Nisbet writes. “In the … Continue reading →

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More Scouring Please

Posted on February 3, 2018 by Simon Richardson

There is a lot of snow lying in useful places all over the Highlands and this winter is shaping up to be an excellent season for classic Scottish winter climbing. The snow banks are nicely oozing ice, but it needs … Continue reading →

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Northern Highlands Three-Pack

Posted on February 1, 2018 by Simon Richardson

David Keogh, Tim Oliver and Robin Clothier had an excellent three days in the Far North-West earlier in January. They visited Coire Gorm on Cul Mor on January 18 with the intention of climbing the modern classic The Cul. Visibility … Continue reading →

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No Country For Old Men

Posted on January 17, 2018 by Simon Richardson

“What do you climb if you’re old, sick and injured but still have to do new routes?” Andy Nisbet writes. “Slime Wall maybe? No, the routes are a bit short. Beinn Damh yes! Low grades an hour and a half … Continue reading →

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The Holy Grail

Posted on January 15, 2018 by Simon Richardson

If you turn to page 97 of the SMC’s Glen Coe guidebook there is a superb picture by Alan Leary of the top pitch of Shibboleth on Buachaille Etive Mor. Look more closely and to the right of the climber … Continue reading →

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En Garde!

Posted on January 14, 2018 by Simon Richardson

I was rather surprised to hear that Murdoch Jamieson and Iain Small climbed The Duel (IX,9) on Stob Coire nan Lochan before Christmas (December 16) and found it rather testing. Now The Duel is a hard route for sure, but … Continue reading →

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New Routes on SCNL

Posted on January 14, 2018 by Simon Richardson

Pete Davies, Helen Rennard and Donie O’Sullivan have been exploring the upper right wall of SC Gully on Stob Coire nan Lochan in Glen Coe and have come away with three good new two-pitch mixed climbs. All three routes start … Continue reading →

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Coigach Twin Pack

Posted on January 13, 2018 by Simon Richardson

Iain Young and John Higham made a couple of productive forays to Coigach in the Far North-West recently. Iain takes up the story: “I had missed out on the first cold spell in December and was beginning to worry that … Continue reading →

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Marmalade – First Winter Ascent

Posted on January 12, 2018 by Simon Richardson

On January 7, Michael Barnard and John MacLeod had a fine day making the first winter ascent of Marmalade (VI,6) on D Gully Buttress on Buachaille Etive Mor. “With the cold weather and snow down to lower levels, it seemed a … Continue reading →

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