Category Archives: Commentary

Chasing the Ephemeral Receives Banff Award

Posted on October 23, 2017 by Simon Richardson

Several years ago, Tom Prentice from Mica Publishing asked me to write a book describing 50 of the finest Scottish winter routes. It seemed a clear brief at the outset, but the more we discussed it, the concept began to … Continue reading →

Posted in Commentary | Tagged Tom Prentice | 2 Comments

Ben Nevis Update

Posted on March 30, 2017 by Simon Richardson

It’s been a difficult season, but as March progressed, good winter climbing was found on Ben Nevis. The problem this winter has been the lack of any base. Any snowfalls have quickly disappeared due to rapid thaws, but the Ben’s … Continue reading →

Posted in Commentary, New Routes, Repeats | Tagged Adam Russell, Ben Nevis, Greg Boswell, Guy Robertson, Hamish Frost, Kevin Roet, Richard Bentley | 1 Comment

Meshuga

Posted on March 18, 2017 by Simon Richardson

“It’s been that sort of winter, where you either climb steep rocky routes or, on the assumption that all easier routes have turf, you put up with mediocre conditions,” Andy Nisbet writes. “And if you’re looking for easier new routes, … Continue reading →

Posted in Commentary, New Routes | Tagged Andy Nisbet, Mullach Fraoch-choire, Sandy Allan, Sarah Sigley, Steve Perry | Comments Off

Chamonix Scottish Raid

Posted on March 12, 2017 by Simon Richardson

Chamonix-based guides, Matt Helliker and Job Bracey had a very successful four-day visit to Scotland at the end of February. With little knowledge of conditions, they headed up to Stob Coire nan Lochan on their first day (February 27) and … Continue reading →

Posted in Commentary, Repeats | Tagged Jon Bracey, Lost Valley Buttress, Matt Helliker, Northern Corries, Stob Coire nan Lochan | Comments Off

Slovenian Exchange

Posted on March 9, 2017 by Simon Richardson

From February 12 to 19, eight Slovenian climbers visited Scotland and teamed up with British climbers to sample the ‘delights’ of Scottish winter. They caught the end of the February cold snap and enjoyed excellent mixed climbing for the first … Continue reading →

Posted in Commentary, Repeats | Tagged Andrej Jez, Ben Nevis, Iain Small, Ian Parnell, Lost Valley Buttress, Marko Prezelj, Matija Volontar, Nick Colton, Stob Coire nan Lochan, Tom Livingstone, Will Harris | Comments Off

High and Steep on The Ben

Posted on February 7, 2017 by Simon Richardson

Friday night’s snowfall fell with little wind and left a thick coat of snow on Ben Nevis. It snowed continuously on Saturday so the mountain now looks very wintry. On the classic routes, heavy snow over bare terrain made for … Continue reading →

Posted in Commentary, New Routes, Repeats | Tagged Ben Nevis, Dave Almond, Dave MacLeod, Greg Boswell, Helen Rennard | 6 Comments

Skye Winter Festival Report

Posted on February 3, 2017 by Simon Richardson

The seventh Skye Winter Festival was another great success. A short bout of winter at the beginning of the two-week event saw five new routes before the meet resorted to more traditional Cuillin games for the next ten days. Local … Continue reading →

Posted in Commentary, New Routes | Tagged Blaven, Chris Brown, Dave Bowdler, Lucy Spark, Mark Francis (Beads), Michael Barnard, Mike Lates, Nathan Adam, Pok Siwinski, Sgurr a'Bhasteir, Sgurr Thuilm, The Cuillin | Comments Off

Good Going on Mitre Ridge

Posted on February 1, 2017 by Simon Richardson

In a season that has consistently given difficult and demanding conditions, as well as periods when winter climbing has not been possible at all, it is pleasing to have news of an enjoyable ascent of a major classic. “Myself and … Continue reading →

Posted in Commentary, Repeats | Tagged Andrew Stevenson, Beinn a'Bhuird, Ross MacDonald, Stu Cossar | Comments Off

Snow At Last!

Posted on January 31, 2017 by Simon Richardson

Saturday’s (January 28) snowfall brought many of the higher cliffs into winter condition at the weekend. Ben Nevis was busy with many of the Early Season favorites such as Gargoyle Wall, The Clanger, Cutlass and Sidewinder seeing ascents. Notable ascents … Continue reading →

Posted in Commentary, New Routes, Repeats | Tagged Andy Munro, Beinn a'Bhuird, Ben Nevis, Braeriach, Carn Etchachan, Helen Rennard, Malcolm Bass, Neil Silver, Paul Figg, Roger Webb, Ross Cowie, Simon Richardson, Sisan Jensen, Steve Elliott | 2 Comments

Topsy-Turvy

Posted on January 7, 2017 by Simon Richardson

The topsy-turvy season continues. A brief thaw on January 3 followed by a dry cold snap was not the best recipe for good winter climbing. The Scottish mountains are unusually dry at the moment and the freeze thaws should be … Continue reading →

Posted in Commentary, New Routes, Repeats | Tagged Andy Nisbet, Braeriach, Guy Steven, Murdoch Jamieson, Northern Corries, Roger Webb, Simon Richardson | Comments Off