Tag Archives: Iain Small

Teufel Grooves

Andy Inglis and Iain Small filled a notable gap on Ben Nevis on February 7 when they made the first winter ascent of Teufel Grooves (IX,9). This steep HVS was first climbed by Dave Bathgate and John Porteus in September … Continue reading

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The God Delusion – Third Ascent

Iain Small and Murdoch Jamieson visited Beinn Bhan on February 3 and made the third ascent of The God Delusion (IX,9). This legendary route was first climbed by Guy Robertson and Pete Benson in 2008 and is considered to be … Continue reading

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Godzilla Repeated

On January 24, Iain Small, Andy Inglis and Murdoch Jamieson made the second ascent of Godzilla (IX,8) in Coire nan Fhamair on Beinn Bhan. This exceptionally steep expedition is a direct version of The Godfather, taking an intricate line through … Continue reading

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Private Eye

Iain Small and Murdoch Jamieson had a memorable couple of days climbing in the Northern Highlands last week. First off was Fuar Tholl on January 22. “We reckoned the North-West would be a better venue with a higher snow line … Continue reading

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From The Jaws of Defeat

The vertical triangular headwall on the left side of the North Wall of Carn Dearg on Ben Nevis is split by a spectacular groove that runs up to the very apex of the wall. It had fascinated me for years, … Continue reading

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Minus One Superdirect

Following their new route on the Astronomy face of Ben Nevis, Iain Small and Uisdean Hawthorn had an even more outstanding day on March 12. “Wednesday was another stunning day with a good frost and rock-solid snow,” Iain told me. … Continue reading

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Dark Star on The Ben

The thaw last weekend and high pressure and overnight frosts earlier this week, finally transformed the huge quantities of snow on Ben Nevis into ice and neve, to the delight of those fortunate enough to be in the vicinity mid-week. … Continue reading

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Vishnu – Second Ascent

There are two absolutely classic-looking traditional winter lines on the stupendous Far East Wall on Beinn Eighe – Kami-kaze and Vishnu. Both routes were climbed by Andy Nisbet in the 1980s during the initial winter exploration of the crag. The … Continue reading

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Year of the Horse

On Thursday January 30, Iain Small and Blair Fyffe made a major addition to Glen Coe. “After climbing Sundance on Beinn Eighe with Murdo [Jamieson], I headed down to The Fort that evening to get out with Blair on Thursday,” … Continue reading

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Scansor – First Winter Ascent

On Friday January 17, Iain Small and Tony Stone pulled off a major ascent with the first winter ascent of Scansor on Stob Coire nan Lochan. This spectacular E2 rock climb up the front face of the pillar to the … Continue reading

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