Iain Small leading the opening pitch of Vishnu (VII,7) on Beinn Eighe’s Far East Wall during the second ascent. This prominent line, first climbed by Andy Nisbet and Andy Cunningham in February 1988, has waited over 25 years for a repeat. (Photo Murdoch Jamieson)
There are two absolutely classic-looking traditional winter lines on the stupendous Far East Wall on Beinn Eighe – Kami-kaze and Vishnu. Both routes were climbed by Andy Nisbet in the 1980s during the initial winter exploration of the crag. The steep and well-protected Kami-kaze (VI,7) is now approaching modern classic status, and has already seen several ascents this season.
Vishnu is a different story however, and although it is 26 years since its first ascent, it had not seen a repeat. It requires icy conditions, and was discussed as a possibility during the BMC International Meet in January, but nobody took up the challenge until February 16 when an enterprising three-man team made a spirited attempt that was foiled by deteriorating conditions after the leader had climbed the crucial ice pitch in the middle of the route.
The long-awaited second ascent fell three days later to the crack team of Murdoch Jamieson and Iain Small on February 19. Murdoch, fresh from his success on The Root of All Evil, takes up the story:
“On Wednesday Iain and I returned to the crag. Our first option was not a goer so we settled on doing Vishnu. I felt slightly intimidated with the grade and knowing that a team had bailed on Sunday. Iain linked the first two pitches, and I then set off up pitch three, where with a bit of digging, I uncovered some good wires. Iain did the top pitch, which certainly felt a bit more like real climbing, and was tricky. He managed to get wires on the right before stepping left onto the ice. Overall VII,7? I don’t know – that first pitch is pretty serious but not technically that hard.”
Iain swithered about the grade too, but eventually both Murdoch and Iain settled on a grade of VII,7. (The route has been graded VII,6 up to now, but was first climbed before the two-tier grading system was in place). The fact that two such talented climbers were unsure of the grade speaks volumes – it would be safe to assume that Vishnu is at the upper end of the Grade VII category!
Still smarting from that. Should have committed!
Do we get our ‘wires’ back from the 3rd pitch?! We are but poor school teachers…
Gary got them. He texted me. Not got them back yet.
Andy Nisbet commented on this post on Facebook today: “It may require some ice but not as much as on the picture (great picture). I hope folk don’t wait for that much ice again – it may never happen.”
That reminds me James will need to either go back to Glow worm or provide you with replacement nuts as your rack will be getting even smaller this winter. Cheers
When I said uncovered good ‘wires’…I meant good gear slots for wires. Do you get your kit back. I’ll think about it.
Hey Murdo, play fair ! If not, I claim my half share.
James, what’s the story with the retro-fitted wire on the hex ?
Abbing station Iain. I was rather fried and cold by then so wanted back up in case. Since I down climbed the chimney and was the highest I set up the abseil.
Hi Erik,yeah gathered that. What I was wondering was where you got the thin stainless,swaged wire that was threaded through the hex ?
The hex’s with wire are Gary’s excellent home conversion that make them easier to get out and place at arms reach. I think he got it from a chandler.
Hi Ian,
I found the 1×19 s/s 2mm wire in GaelForce in Inverness, a marine supply shop. The swage is copper under the heat shrink. I have more of the same wire if you want some, as I bought all their stock in that size.