Tag Archives: Iain Small

No Success Like Failure

Posted on February 6, 2013 by Simon Richardson

When Iain Small and I climbed Rogue’s Rib on Ben Nevis in March 2011 we were struck by the unclimbed shallow groove to our left. It ran the full height of the buttress and was defended at its base by … Continue reading →

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Slanting Gully – Complete Ascent

Posted on January 27, 2013 by Simon Richardson

On January 24, Iain Small visited Skye with Doug Hawthorn and made the first complete winter ascent of Slanting Gully on Sgurr a’Mhadaidh’s North Face. The route passes over Foxes Rake at half height and had previously been climbed to … Continue reading →

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Jib on Skye

Posted on January 21, 2013 by Simon Richardson

Sometimes you have to throw caution to the wind, and chase your dream. When Iain Small and I climbed on Blaven three years ago we were struck by the soaring corner-line of Jib on the north side of The Great … Continue reading →

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Running It Out on Lochnagar

Posted on February 27, 2012 by Simon Richardson

West Buttress on Lochnagar sports a number of excellent winter routes, but apart from Black Spout Buttress and West Gully, they are relatively unfrequented. The climbs are long and feel rather committing, but more importantly, this aspect of the corrie … Continue reading →

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BMC Winter Meet – Loch Avon Update

Posted on January 31, 2012 by Simon Richardson

The Loch Avon Basin has been a much-visited venue this season, and it was a popular location of Day 2 (January 24) of the BMC Winter Meet with two ascents of the classic Postern on the Shelter Stone. Iain Small … Continue reading →

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Fly Me To The Moon

Posted on January 30, 2012 by Simon Richardson

On the evening of Sunday January 22, Iain Small and I were planning to be at Glenmore Lodge for 7pm for the start of the BMC International Meet, so we were looking for a suitable nearby winter venue. Unfortunately the … Continue reading →

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All Go in the Loch Avon Basin

Posted on January 1, 2012 by Simon Richardson

The hairdryer thaw over Christmas did not completely devastate winter in the Cairngorms, and the Loch Avon Basin was surprisingly busy on Friday December 30. On the Shelter Stone, Postern had a couple of ascents by Iain Small and Susan … Continue reading →

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Rogue’s Rib Rediscovered

Posted on March 20, 2011 by Simon Richardson

For Iain Small and I, it was another tough call this weekend on where to go. East or west, mixed or ice were the choices, but in the end our decision was simply based on access. After the heavy snowfalls … Continue reading →

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Smear Fear

Posted on March 10, 2011 by Simon Richardson

I’ve been watching the ice grow high up on the right side of Eagle Buttress for several weeks now. In summer, the right arête of the Where Eagles Dare headwall (climbed by State of Independence) is delimited in its right … Continue reading →

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Brave New World

Posted on February 22, 2011 by Simon Richardson

The weather forecast for last weekend was terrible, but as the week progressed climbing on Sunday began to look a possibility. Iain Small and I hummed and hawed about where to go, trying to balance avalanche risk and high winds. … Continue reading →

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