Monthly Archives: February 2012

If At First You Don’t Succeed…

With a brief warming on Saturday and a better weather forecast for the east, Lochnagar was the obvious choice on Sunday February 5. Roger Everett and I were a little concerned about the amount of snow that may have fallen … Continue reading

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Aldering

Andy Nisbet has made four visits to Ben Alder this season. Here, he takes up the story of his last three trips: “There aren’t many big crags with so few routes but I guess 24km from the road is still … Continue reading

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Is This The Future?

On the Sunday evening (January 22) at the start of the BMC Winter Meet, I bumped into Greg Boswell in Glenmore Lodge and we had a quick chat about recent routes. We talked about Siberian Tiger and I wondered what … Continue reading

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Exploration in the Fannaichs

After adding two routes last season, Martin Hind has continued his exploration of Creag Dubh a’Gorm Lochain by making the first ascent of Roseroot (V,5) with James Edwards on February 5. This remote crag deep in the Fannaichs is shrouded … Continue reading

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Eilde Canyon and Sron na Lairig Update

Chris Pasteur and Simon Yearsley had a good day in Eilde Canyon and on Sron na Lairig in Glen Coe on February 3. “We managed to get out on Friday, before the warm front came in, and went up to … Continue reading

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Rampart Wall – Second Ascent

On January 28 Jim Higgins and Andy Inglis repeated Rampart Wall on the Eastern Ramparts of Beinn Eighe. This sensational summer HVS was first climbed in winter by Andy Nisbet, Brian Davison and Dave McGimpsey in March 2002. Further details … Continue reading

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Gully of the Sods

Unaware of the first ascent of Fly Me to the Moon nine days before, Pete Davies and Donie O’Sullivan also visited the Crescent Gully area of Creag Meagaidh and made the superb first ascent of Gully of the Sods (VI,6) … Continue reading

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The Primate – First Winter Ascent

On February 5, Pete Davies and Donie O’Sullivan laid a long sought-after problem to rest with the first winter ascent of The Primate (VIII,8) on the West Wall of Mitre Ridge in the remote Garbh Choire of Beinn a’Bhuird. “We … Continue reading

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Lochnagar’s Black Spout Wall

Lochnagar’s Black Spout Wall is one of the steepest and most impressive walls in the Cairngorms. It was first climbed in summer by a four-pitch E3 by Dougie Dinwoodie and Bob Smith in August 1976, and it is a highly … Continue reading

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Cooran Gully

Conditions were good in the Galloway Hills last week, and on February 2, Stephen Reid and John Biggar made the first winter ascent of Cooran Gully on the Dungeon of Buchan. “It’s four pitches, III/IV and nicely sustained at that … Continue reading

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