Category Archives: Repeats

The Irony and Scotophobia

Dave Almond had an outstanding trip up to Scotland last week and came away with two new routes on Beinn Eighe. Dave takes up the story: “I drove up on the March 7 and started my week with a very … Continue reading

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International Winter Meet Day 6

Two new routes on Garbh Bheinn was the big news from the last day of the winter meet (February 28). The South Wall is very rarely in winter condition, but continuous storms had plastered it in snow making it a … Continue reading

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International Winter Meet Day 5

Heavy snowfall overnight on strong westerly winds resulted in dangerous windslab conditions on the fifth day of the International Meet (February 27). On Ben Nevis this confined teams to wind scoured cliffs such as the Minus Face, where the three … Continue reading

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International Winter Meet Day 4

On February 26, the wind dropped and all eyes turned to Ben Nevis with close to 40 climbers from the International Meet active on the mountain. The standout performance came from Peter Hoang (Canada) and Neil Adams who made an … Continue reading

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International Winter Meet Day 3

First of all, the big news from yesterday (February 24) was a new route on Minus Two Buttress on Ben Nevis by Maarten Van Haeren (Canada) and Andy Inglis. Calculus (VIII,8) takes a line directly through the overhangs that girdle … Continue reading

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International Winter Meet Day 2

The weather forecast for February 24 predicted Scotland would be in the eye of a storm but the exact timing of the anticipated heavy snowfall varied from forecast to forecast. Unfortunately, after a calm start it soon started to snow … Continue reading

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International Winter Meet Day 1

After twelve months of planning, the 2020 International Winter Meet finally got underway last night when 55 climbers from 23 countries met at Aviemore Youth Hostel. After a slow start to the winter, the February storms have magically transformed the … Continue reading

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Crack of Dawn Second Ascent

Callum Johnson and Andy MacKinnon pulled off a major repeat on February 13 when they made the second ascent of Crack of Dawn (VII,8) on Sgurr Mhic Choinnich on Skye. Callum, who has had a very productive February with a … Continue reading

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All Go on Black Buttress

Way back in October 1998 I was invited to attend the opening of the North Face Car Park At Torlundy, just north of Fort William. It seems ancient history now, but before the North Face Car Park, most climbers accessed … Continue reading

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Can Do on Nocando Crack!

I left out the Guy Steven and Steve Holmes’ ascent of Nocando Crack (VII,8) on January 29 in Coire an Lochain in the Northern Corries in my last post January Scottish Winter Diary because Nocando Crack is neither a new … Continue reading

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