Author Archives: Simon Richardson

About Simon Richardson

Simon Richardson is a passionate Scottish winter climber

Consolation Corner

Erick Baillot and Stuart McFarlane visited Beinn and Dothaidh on Sunday January 15. “Turf conditions were amazing and the cliff was icy,” Stuart told me. “Now all the main crag needs is a dump of snow!” But instead of climbing … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , | 1 Comment

The Gathering – Second Ascent

Will Sim and Greg Boswell enjoyed three productive days in Coire an Lochain in the Northern Corries last week. On Friday January 13, they warmed up with Daddy Longlegs (VIII,9  with Adam Booth before making the second ascent of The … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes, Repeats | Tagged , , , | 5 Comments

Ben Alder Magic

Ben Alder was a natural choice for anyone looking for classic Scottish winter climbing last weekend. Its huge eastern corries are renowned for holding snow blown from the extensive plateau area, and the recent thaw and freeze were perfect for … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , | Comments Off on Ben Alder Magic

Snow Galore in Garbh Choire Mor!

Last week’s thaw has meant that new route possibilities have been rather thin on the ground recently (pardon the pun). Cairn Gorm in particular suffered badly in the warm temperatures, but Garbh Choire Moir on Braeriach can usually be relied … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , | Comments Off on Snow Galore in Garbh Choire Mor!

Glen Feshie Corkscrew

Friday January 6 was a rare calm day in The Cairngorms, and Andy Nisbet and Jonathan Preston visited Glen Feshie and climbed a new route to Coire Garbhlach in Glen Feshie. As Andy explains, this was the third route that … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , | Comments Off on Glen Feshie Corkscrew

Lochnagar Cracker

Guy Robertson and Jason Currie made a fine addition to Lochnagar on Friday January 6, with the first ascent of The Cracker on The Cathedral. This three-pitch VII,8 takes the V-groove and cracked wall on the lower left side of … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , | Comments Off on Lochnagar Cracker

Southern Comfort

Some late news… On December 18, Mike Lates and Matthew Holmes added the 240m-long Southern Comfort (IV,5) to Coire Lagan in the Cuillin. This significant addition, which is similar in difficulty and stature to White Lies (IV,5 – Lates/Francis/Wear) on … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , | Comments Off on Southern Comfort

Am Bodach Ice

To cheer us all up during this lengthy spell of wild and windy weather, I thought I’d post a topo that Ruth Taylor sent me the other day. She visited the crag with Andy Turner on 24th January 2010 and … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes, Topos | Tagged , , , | 2 Comments

Bill Brooker (1931 – 2011)

When I first visited Aberdeen in the mid 1980s, my good friend Rick Allen took me along to an Etchachan Club meeting. Unlike other climbing club evenings, this was not held in a pub, but somewhere in the University, and … Continue reading

Posted in Commentary | Tagged | 2 Comments

Wobble Block Chimney

Yesterday (January 2) was a horrible day in the Cairngorms. Roger Webb and I were not convinced that the turf would be fully frozen after the New Year thaw, so we headed for Stac an Fharaidh on the south side … Continue reading

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , | Comments Off on Wobble Block Chimney