Lochnagar Cracker

Guy Robertson looking up to the crux on The Cracker (VII,8) on The Cathedral on the Southern Sector of Lochnagar. This route had seen at least two prior attempts by separate teams. The final groove above the traverse of Judas Priest is an obvious feature, but it is often capped by a huge cornice. (Photo Jason Currie)

Guy Robertson and Jason Currie made a fine addition to Lochnagar on Friday January 6, with the first ascent of The Cracker on The Cathedral. This three-pitch VII,8 takes the V-groove and cracked wall on the lower left side of Cathedral Chimney, then finishes directly, cutting across Judas Priest where it weaves up right.

“After a short entry pitch, the meat is in the second pitch’” Guy told me.  “This started with a balancy tech 7 groove protected by hooks to a ledge, then very sustained but positive and well-protected tech 8 up a bulging crack line to a nice crescendo over a roof at the top.  The climbing was brilliant, and a good test at the grade so hopefully it will see some attention, as it will come into condition rapidly.  Jason had been up to try the route twice previously, got on it once and had taken a fall, cracking a rib which put him out of action for the rest of that season – hence the name!  I’m not sure why, but I was expecting a nice easy grade VI – I was given a pleasant if substantial kick up the arse!”

About Simon Richardson

Simon Richardson is a passionate Scottish winter climber
This entry was posted in New Routes and tagged , , . Bookmark the permalink.