The Gathering – Second Ascent

Will Sim on a possible new VI,6 on the right wall of Y-Gully Left Branch in Coire an Lochain on Cairn Gorm. During a weekend of fine weather but very lean conditions, it was the high and secluded Y-Gully area that held on to the most wintry conditions in the Northern Corries. (Photo Greg Boswell)

Will Sim and Greg Boswell enjoyed three productive days in Coire an Lochain in the Northern Corries last week. On Friday January 13, they warmed up with Daddy Longlegs (VIII,9  with Adam Booth before making the second ascent of The Gathering (VIII,9) the following day. This exceptionally steep route on the pinnacle in the fork of Y-Gully was first climbed by Guy Robertson and Pete Macpherson at the end of February last season.

“The route was awesome,” Greg told me. “It was home to some very steep but positive climbing with two brilliant pitches. Not too hard for the grade, but deffo VIII,9, and much harder than Pic’n Mix.”

On Sunday (January 15) the pair climbed a route on the right wall of Y-Gully Left Branch. It started with a technical cracked wall leading into a hanging off-width chimney, before moving onto a turfy wall and finishing up right to the top.

“We weren’t sure if this was a new line or not,” Greg explained, “but the climbing was super enjoyable, and maybe one of the best routes of that grade that I’ve climbed. Will led the whole thing and we thought it was about VI,6.”

About Simon Richardson

Simon Richardson is a passionate Scottish winter climber
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5 Responses to The Gathering – Second Ascent

  1. John Lyall says:

    The new line looks like ‘Stagefright’ by Ettle, Milne, from 1998

  2. Erik says:

    yeah looks like stagefright, def right wall

  3. Andy Nisbet says:

    I’d go for Stagefright too, but haven’t done it. I have seen it ice top to bottom late season, but it certainly looks hard then.

  4. Andy Nisbet says:

    Looking at the description, it might be a different start to Stagefright.

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