Category Archives: Repeats

The Secret Repeated Again

Yesterday (November 23), Pete Macpherson and Martin Moran made an ascent of The Secret on Ben Nevis. This modern test-piece, high on Creag Coire na Ciste overlooking Number Three Gully, was first climbed in December 2007 by Andy Turner, Steve … Continue reading →

Posted in Repeats | Tagged , , | 3 Comments

Another Busy Weekend in the Cairngorms

As usual, early season activity continues to focus on the Northern Corries. During the weekend Coire an t-Sneachda was especially popular and there were ascents of The Lamp, Belhaven, Burning and Looting, Pot of Gold and Houdini. Also of note … Continue reading →

Posted in New Routes, Repeats | Tagged , , , , , | Comments Off on Another Busy Weekend in the Cairngorms

New Route on Stag Rocks

The south-facing Stag Rocks in the Loch Avon Basin are a good option after a fresh snowfall. They are best early in the season before the sun gets high in the sky and strips the crag. Last week, on Wednesday … Continue reading →

Posted in New Routes, Repeats | Tagged , , , , | Comments Off on New Route on Stag Rocks

Second Ascent of Pic’n Mix

On Monday March 29, Guy Robertson and Greg Boswell made the second ascent of Pic’n Mix in the Northern Corries. This fierce (IX,9) was first climbed by Ian Parnell and Tim Emmett in April 2006. The route starts up Never … Continue reading →

Posted in Repeats | Tagged , , | Comments Off on Second Ascent of Pic’n Mix

Ben Nevis – Ship of Fools Repeated

Yesterday March 27, Iain Parnell and Greg Boswell made the second ascent of Ship of Fools (VIII,7), high up on Indicator Wall. This quintessential thin ice route takes a series of very thin ice grooves (30 cm wide in places) … Continue reading →

Posted in Repeats | Tagged , , , , , , , | Comments Off on Ben Nevis – Ship of Fools Repeated

Redemption, Lochnagar

Guy Robertson and Pete MacPherson made the second ascent of Redemption (VIII,7) on Tuesday March 16. Heavily hoared conditions on The Stack meant it was more like Patagonia than Scotland! They found four runners on the entire route. The rime … Continue reading →

Posted in Repeats | Tagged , , | Comments Off on Redemption, Lochnagar

Point Blank Repeated

On his way up Observatory Gully to climb Faith Healer (see yesterday’s post), Iain Small noticed that Point Blank (VII,7), the exposed rib right of Point Five Gully, was in nearly in condition. This Mal Duff masterpiece was first climbed … Continue reading →

Posted in Repeats | Tagged , , | Comments Off on Point Blank Repeated

Late Start to the New Winter Season

It has been a late start to the winter season. November is typically an excellent month for mixed climbing in the Cairngorms, but unseasonally warm temperatures meant that only the most determined found winter routes high on Braeriach and Beinn … Continue reading →

Posted in New Routes, Repeats, Winter Conditions | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , | Comments Off on Late Start to the New Winter Season