Author Archives: Simon Richardson

About Simon Richardson

Simon Richardson is a passionate Scottish winter climber

Black Spout Buttress, Direct Variations

Posted on December 19, 2010 by Simon Richardson

On Wednesday December 15, Dave Almond, Duncan Tunstall and Greg Parsons made a direct ascent of the classic Black Spout Buttress on Lochnagar. Rather than follow the standard line, the trio followed a more direct version of the lower tier … Continue reading →

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Toughing It Out on Lochnagar

Posted on December 18, 2010 by Simon Richardson

On Wednesday December 15, Ross Hewitt and Sandy Simpson made a rare repeat of Tough Guy on Lochangar. The pair attempted this sought-after mixed line on the Tough-Brown face the previous Sunday, but after a late start they ran out … Continue reading →

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Happy Days on Skye

Posted on December 17, 2010 by Simon Richardson

On November 30, Mike Lates and Francis Blunt had a brilliant adventure on Skye. “Francis is on the night watchman scheme at Glenmore Lodge and he gave me quite an education on a hard new mixed line on Bealach Buttress, … Continue reading →

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The Wonderful Wizard

Posted on December 15, 2010 by Simon Richardson

Three days before making the first winter ascents of Rose Late and Oz with Andy Nisbet (see http://www.scottishwinter.com/?p=951),  John Lyall and Jonathan Preston visited No.2 Gully Buttress on Aonach Dubh on December 4 and made the first ascent of The … Continue reading →

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Sharpening The Sword

Posted on December 13, 2010 by Simon Richardson

Today (December 13), John Lyall, Andy Nisbet and Jonathan Preston added an Independent Finish (IV,5) to The Sword on Carn Etchachan. The Sword climbs the ramp of Red Guard (summer), then leaves it to finish as for Red Guard (winter). … Continue reading →

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Cairngorm Calling

Posted on December 13, 2010 by Simon Richardson

It was a tricky call this weekend. Freezing levels were dropping on Sunday, but last week’s thaw had stripped the many of the buttresses in the West. This ruled out technical climbing on The Ben, but how about the Cairngorms? … Continue reading →

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The Wizard of Oz

Posted on December 13, 2010 by Simon Richardson

Last week, Sandy Allan, John Lyall, Andy Nisbet had a couple of productive days climbing on No.2 Buttress on the West Face of Aonach Dubh in Glen Coe. On December 7 they added a new climb approximating to the summer … Continue reading →

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Early Season Traverse of the Cuillin Ridge

Posted on December 10, 2010 by Simon Richardson

I was mightily impressed last week when I heard that a team was bivvying out on the Cuillin Ridge. The majority of Ridge traverse attempts, both in summer and winter, fail, so I was delighted to hear a few days … Continue reading →

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New Route on Beinn Udhlaidh

Posted on December 10, 2010 by Simon Richardson

On Wednesday (December 8), Greg Boswell and Neil Carnegie made a difficult new addition to Beinn Udhlaidh. The Crooked Smile (VII,7) takes steep mixed ground to the left of The Smirk to gain a hanging ice smear which leads up … Continue reading →

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The Sting – Finally Repeated After 20 Years!

Posted on December 9, 2010 by Simon Richardson

Winter climbs are like buses. A route waits 20 years for a repeat, and then two come along together! After failing to climb The Sting on Beinn an Socach on the Bridge of Orchy cliffs the previous weekend, Stuart McFarlane … Continue reading →

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