Early Season Traverse of the Cuillin Ridge

Ben O'Connor Croft abseiling from the Bhasteir Tooth on November 30. The two-day traverse with Neil Mackay may be the first time the Cuillin Ridge has been traversed in full winter conditions this early in the season. (Photo Neil Mackay)

I was mightily impressed last week when I heard that a team was bivvying out on the Cuillin Ridge. The majority of Ridge traverse attempts, both in summer and winter, fail, so I was delighted to hear a few days later that Ben O’Connor Croft and Neil Mackay had been successful. Ben sent me the account below soon after, which perfectly captures the adventure and intensity of their experience, and I now have a picture from Neil to illustrate the post. This was an outstanding piece of mountaineering and quite possibly the earliest in the season that the Ridge has ever been traversed. Most teams wait until February or March to take advantage of more daylight and consolidated snow.

“Neil and I set off at 7 am on Tuesday morning [November 30], headed up Sgurr nan Gilean, over to Am Bastier, threaded the needle and on. We bivvied on the col just before the slab pitch, and made a semi-igloo out of wind slab, without the roof, to shelter us from the wind. Started late About 9 the next morning after very cold night, up the slab pitch which was banked out with snow, so not much of an issue, then on up the Diff up the arete of the Inn Pin, across to the TD gap, where a rope got stuck so had to climb back up and free it, then onto Sgurr nan Eag, where we descended in the dark, arriving back at Glen Brittle at about 9.30 pm on Wednesday. So basically all the major summits, including the interesting bits, with a lot of slow unconsolidated snow, but finding occasional ‘Thank God’ Neve on the east slopes. A great outing all in all, with some interesting route finding, a few navigational hiccups, but nothing not easily corrected.  And great weather – clear blue all the way!”

About Simon Richardson

Simon Richardson is a passionate Scottish winter climber
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