Author Archives: Simon Richardson

About Simon Richardson

Simon Richardson is a passionate Scottish winter climber

Loch Etchachan Makeover

Posted on March 3, 2011 by Simon Richardson

I was looking across to the central Cairngorms from the South Summit of Beinn a’Bhuird on Monday when Roger Webb asked me the name of the crag set back from Creagan a’Choire Etchachan. “Those are the crags above Loch Etchachan,” … Continue reading →

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , | Comments Off on Loch Etchachan Makeover

Extasy Repeated!

Posted on March 2, 2011 by Simon Richardson

Guy Robertson and Pete Benson made the second ascent of Extasy (VIII,8) on Creag Meagaidh on Monday February 21. This landmark route, which takes the awe-inspiring 300m-high wall between Smith’s Gully and The Fly, was first climbed by Dave Hesleden … Continue reading →

Posted in Repeats | Tagged , , | Comments Off on Extasy Repeated!

Getting Tactical on Beinn Dearg

Posted on February 25, 2011 by Simon Richardson

Andy Nisbet and Duncan Tunstall had an energetic day on Tuesday (February 23), climbing two new lines, Pearl Buttress (IV,5) and Peace Process (IV,3), on the Glensquaib Cliffs of Beinn Dearg. The tactics for the day combined reconnaissance, psychology, conditions … Continue reading →

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , | 2 Comments

Sgorr Ruadh’s Crimson Buttress

Posted on February 24, 2011 by Simon Richardson

When Andy Nisbet made the first ascent of Woundwort on Sgorr Ruadh earlier in the winter, he’d noticed an obvious icy chimney near its start leading up left to some pleasant grooves and ramps on the crest of the buttress, … Continue reading →

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , | Comments Off on Sgorr Ruadh’s Crimson Buttress

Truly Accidental

Posted on February 24, 2011 by Simon Richardson

Every so often I receive an email from Martin Holland letting me know about his recent explorations. These are often in the Southern Highlands, and although not often in the highest grades, Martin’s choices are often well chosen and in … Continue reading →

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , | 1 Comment

Brave New World

Posted on February 22, 2011 by Simon Richardson

The weather forecast for last weekend was terrible, but as the week progressed climbing on Sunday began to look a possibility. Iain Small and I hummed and hawed about where to go, trying to balance avalanche risk and high winds. … Continue reading →

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , | Comments Off on Brave New World

The Pretender

Posted on February 22, 2011 by Simon Richardson

On Thursday February 17, Nick Bullock, Andy Turner and Bruce Poll visited Ben Nevis and added a challenging new route to the East Flank of Tower Ridge. The Pretender (VII,9) lies on the buttress to the right of The Great … Continue reading →

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , , | Comments Off on The Pretender

Angels with Dirty Faces

Posted on February 21, 2011 by Simon Richardson

Iain Small and Tony Stone are not only two of the most talented climbers on the Scottish winter scene today, but they are also amongst the most modest. Take yesterday for example. Iain and I were headed for Carn Dearg … Continue reading →

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , | Comments Off on Angels with Dirty Faces

Third Ascent of The Hurting for Greg Boswell

Posted on February 19, 2011 by Simon Richardson

Yesterday (February 18), Greg Boswell continued his extraordinary run of routes with the third ascent of The Hurting (XI,11) in Coire an t-Sneachda. This 35m-long test-piece, was first climbed in winter by by Dave MacLeod in February 2005 and only … Continue reading →

Posted in Repeats | Tagged , , | Comments Off on Third Ascent of The Hurting for Greg Boswell

More Glen Esk Exploration

Posted on February 18, 2011 by Simon Richardson

Duncan Tunstall has continued to explore the cliffs of Glen Esk on the south-east side of the Cairngorms. On Tuesday February 15 he teamed up with Stephen Venables to straighten out last year’s addition Shaula Ridge (III,5) on the north … Continue reading →

Posted in New Routes | Tagged , , | Comments Off on More Glen Esk Exploration