Category Archives: New Routes

Creag Meagaidh Diary

It’s been a busy couple of weeks on Creag Meagaidh’s Pinnacle Buttress, which has probably been in it’s best condition since winter 2005: February 24: Iain Small and Andy Inglis climb Paradise Lost (VII,8), a new route up the centre … Continue reading

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You Can’t Win ‘Em All

“Whilst many times guiding the Inaccessible Pinnacle in the 1990s, I often looked down its Coruisg side to where slabby ground dropped away rapidly,” Andy Nisbet writes. “Because the slope was convex, all you could see was what was in … Continue reading

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Southern Highlands Update

Martin (Wilf) Holland visited Coire na Saobhaidhe on Beinn Chuirn near Tyndrum on March 6. “A brief break in the clouds allowed me to see the crag and there were surprisingly large cornices, which had survived the thaw of two … Continue reading

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Der Riesenwand Direct Finish

Murdoch Jamieson and Nick Bullock climbed a direct finish to Der Riesenwand (VII,6) on February 25. Just before the ‘memorable swing around a bulge’ on the upper left-trending ledge, they were attracted to steep ice on the right, so Murdoch … Continue reading

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Attaboy

“Beinn Fhada is almost on the west coast behind the Five Sisters of Kintail,” Andy Nisbt writes. “It’s sheltered from most snowy wind directions so is often my choice if there’s too much snow elsewhere. No doubt it rains a … Continue reading

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Easan Feidh Climbed At Last!

Steve Perry and Sophie Grace Chappell showed remarkable vision, determination and persistence when they made the first ascent of Easan Feidh (VI,6) on March 5. This spectacular 90m-high waterfall, which lies on Creag na h-lolaire to the south of Ben … Continue reading

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Damh Goulotte

“Beinn Damh remains an accessible venue for the old climber with a gammy knee,” Andy Nisbet writes. “And it has the added bonus that it’s escaped snowmageddon, leaving only ice and neve. The good conditions have tempted Dave McGimpsey out … Continue reading

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Outpost Route

“Winter and one of the high corries of Beinn a’Bhuird is a combination which promises solitude,” Simon Yearsley writes. “And away from the Cold Climbs lure of Mitre Ridge, it practically guarantees it. The secret to climbing in these magnificent … Continue reading

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Scorrie Explorations

On February 11, Forrest Templeton and I visited Glen Clova. In recent seasons Forrest has been exploring The Scorrie, the pronounced buttress flanking the right side of Winter Corrie, so I thought it was a good opportunity to familiarise myself … Continue reading

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Beast From The East

There’s a Beast from the East forecast. Hypothermia, death and destruction are imminent. So why am I climbing in blazing sunshine wearing only a vest, not a cloud in the sky, not a breath of wind, neve from the valley … Continue reading

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