Category Archives: New Routes

Raw Egg Twin Pack

Posted on February 10, 2022 by Simon Richardson

Huw Scott, Tom Fullen and Nathan Adam added a couple of good new mixed routes to Raw Egg Buttress on Aonach Beag on February 9. Old Yoker (VI,7) starts at the base of Ruadh Eigg Chimney and takes the obvious … Continue reading →

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January Update

Posted on January 24, 2022 by Simon Richardson

January has been disappointing month for Scottish winter climbers. The weather has been dominated by warm high pressure systems and any snowfall has quickly disappeared with sudden thaws. The dry air and associated wet bulb effect has allowed the remaining … Continue reading →

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Jacobite Buttress

Posted on January 12, 2022 by Simon Richardson

Neil Adams, Nathan Adam and Garry Campbell made an excellent addition to Sgurr Ghiubhsachain’s Jacobite Buttress above Loch Shiel on Friday January 7. This newly developed cliff is described in Neil’s highly anticipated Winter Climbs West guidebook that will shortly … Continue reading →

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Iron Man Ridge

Posted on January 10, 2022 by Simon Richardson

It’s been an unsettled season so far, but Wednesday January 5 offered a possible opportunity to escape the recent gales and storms. The weather was clearing from the west, so at first glance, the Central Cairngorms was not a logical … Continue reading →

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Geologists’ Ridge

Posted on January 8, 2022 by Simon Richardson

Iain Young and John Higham had a superb day on January 5 making the first ascent of Geologists’ Ridge (IV,4) on the 450m-high south -west face of Conival in the Northern Highlands. Iain and John have a strong track record … Continue reading →

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Juggling Crampons on The Jester

Posted on December 19, 2021 by Simon Richardson

On December 9, Oliver Skeoch and Ryan Balharry made the first winter ascent of The Jester (V,7) on Stob Coire nan Lochan. This small but impressive pinnacle lies at the foot of Pinnacle Buttress and is well seen on the … Continue reading →

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Princess Cut

Posted on December 15, 2021 by Simon Richardson

During the first Coronavirus lockdown in spring 2020 when we were only allowed to venture away from our homes on foot or bike, Mark Robson discovered an unclimbed crag on Ben Wyvis. The 100m-high Diamond Buttress is situated on Glas … Continue reading →

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California Dreamin’

Posted on December 1, 2021 by Simon Richardson

On November 27, James Milton and Robbie Hearns made the enterprising first winter ascent of California (IV,4) in Coire Druim na Staidhre on Sgurr nan Saighead in Kintail. This Severe is the only summer route in the corrie and was … Continue reading →

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New Winter Season Finally Underway

Posted on November 30, 2021 by Simon Richardson

It’s been a slow start to the Scottish winter season and most of November has been remarkably mild. There were a couple of short bursts of winter at the end of October when snowed up rock routes in the Northern … Continue reading →

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2021 Winter Catch Up

Posted on May 14, 2021 by Simon Richardson

Now that winter is over, and lockdown largely behind us, I have summarised activity from January 4 until the end of the season. The Cuillin: Big news from Skye was the first winter ascent of Mongoose Direct (VIII,8) on Sgurr … Continue reading →

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