Highway to Hell

Ian Magill on the first ascent of Highway to Hell (III,5) on the north side of the North-East Ridge of Beinn Ime. This is the highest cliff in Arrochar and provides worthwhile climbing when conditions are lean. (Photo Andrew Fraser)

Ian Magill on the first ascent of Highway to Hell (III,5) on the north side of the North-East Ridge of Beinn Ime. This is the highest cliff in Arrochar and provides worthwhile climbing when conditions are lean. (Photo Andrew Fraser)

“While on the subject of high, north facing and reliable crags in unreliable areas,” Andrew Fraser recalls, “we have been doing some routes on Arrochar’s highest crag – the north face of the North-East Ridge of Beinn Ime. Again this only had one route, being The Lost Highway (III). There are two crags, both of 100m. The left one has a ramp leading rightwards across it. This gave the excellent The Darkness Beckons (IV,4) with a surprising first pitch and a sting in the tail to Ian Magill and myself in February 2012. The vertical fault at the right end of the cliff gave Lane Restrictions (III,4) to Ian, James Dalgliesh and myself on April 7.

On the right-hand crag, the fault to the right of Lost Highway gave two pitches of pleasant Grade II climbing to Ian and myself on 28 November 2012, before Ian spoiled matters with a desperate tech 5 finish – Highway to Hell (III,5). At the far right end of the crag, Ian, James and myself did Innominate Gully 55m (I), in heavily banked conditions, on April 7. As the highest crag in Arrochar, and north facing as well, this is another crag, which has proved reliable in thin conditions.”On the right-hand crag, the fault to the right of Lost Highway gave two pitches of pleasant Grade II climbing to Ian and myself on 28 November 2012, before Ian spoiled matters with a desperate tech 5 finish – Highway to Hell (III,5). At the far right end of the crag, Ian, James and myself did Innominate Gully 55m (I), in heavily banked conditions, on April 7. As the highest crag in Arrochar, and north facing as well, this is another crag, which has proved reliable in thin conditions.”

About Simon Richardson

Simon Richardson is a passionate Scottish winter climber
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3 Responses to Highway to Hell

  1. Stuart the postie says:

    Good to see your still getting out Andrew!

    I was aware about this crag, short walls and turfy ramps? Ben Ime has been popular this season, is there anything left???

  2. Andrew Fraser says:

    Hi Stuart
    There is the odd thing left, with perhaps some wandering grade 3 type things on the right side of the right buttress. Where did your line with Simon go on the Nuis face. Was it up the middle near Right On, taking the prow at the top?

    • Stuart the postie says:

      Hi Andrew,

      It starts just right of this and takes a diagonal ramp line, crossing the main face, before trending back left below the summit.

      Are you still based in Ayr?

      Stuart

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