Pete Benson on the steep first pitch of Godzilla on Beinn Bhan. This new IX,8 takes a direct line into the upper pitches of The Godfather. “A super-direct, true winter-only line with awesome turf-dependent climbing and a really spectacular feel – the stuff of dreams!” (Photo Guy Robertson)

Pete Benson, Nick Bullock, and Guy Robertson added another demanding route to the Giant’s Wall on Beinn Bhan on Monday March 14. Godzilla (it was something of a monster) takes a direct line to join the last two pitches of The Godfather.

“I’d studied this part of the wall a bit,” Guy told me, “but I still didn’t think it would go on-sight as it takes in some pretty steep and complex territory. Pete sent a powerful corner-crack feature to get us going, but above this the upper half of the lower wall has lots of ill-defined, overhanging possibilities. After a fair bit of probing Nick unlocked this with a bold lead up a little groove involving strenuous tech 8 above very poor protection. I then managed to gain the first big terrace by another spooky and quite steep pitch with most of my runners apparently popping out underneath me! Pete stepped in to the fray again to blast the smooth corner above which just left us with a quick romp up the top section of The Godfather.

We topped out at around 6.30pm, probably about 11 hours on the route. As usual on this face much of the time and effort was taken up route-finding on the crux. I think a grade of IX,8 is appropriate – not desperately hard, but not a route for top-roping or dogging! Falling off on either pitch 2 or 3 wouldn’t be pretty. It’s undoubtedly one of the best lines either of the three of us have done anywhere – roll on winter 2011!”

About Simon Richardson

Simon Richardson is a passionate Scottish winter climber
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3 Responses to Godzilla

  1. Andy Nisbet says:

    Is the grade here not too low? If you made “a quick romp up the top section of The Godfather”, and that’s its crux at technical 8 (which no-one disputes), then surely Godzilla must be X,9.

  2. Jon Bracey says:

    I thought the Godfather was boarderline VIII 7 / VIII 8. Never technically desperate and adequate protection, but a big route with complex route finding.

  3. Guy Rob says:

    It’s a grade harder than Godfather – not technically harder, but more sustained and definitely a whole grade bolder.

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