Braeriach’s Forgotten Pinnacle

The Forgotten Pinnacle in Coire nan Clach on Braeriach. Roger Everett and I climbed the right-hand groove (just left of the V-chimney) to gain the summit before continuing up the ridge on the right. We may have been the first people stand atop this miniature Cairngorm summit. (Archive Photo Simon Richardson)

On Sunday November 7, Roger Everett and I visited Coire nan Clach on Braeriach. Few climbers have visited this hidden little coire that nestles under the summit of Einich Cairn, but it sports a handful of granite ribs that are perfect for early season snow. We climbed two short groove-lines right of Yukon Gold (Grade IV,4 and II) before climbing the front face of the prominent central pinnacle. This is surprisingly difficult to climb as the rock slants the wrong way and protection is poor at mid-height, but after a fierce VI,6 tussle we gained the spiky summit. A fun second pitch across a gap led to the top. I suggested to Roger that we may have been the first people to stand on top of this feature, but it is equally possible that some intrepid scrambler had been there before by down climbing the upper ridge from the plateau!

About Simon Richardson

Simon Richardson is a passionate Scottish winter climber
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