John Crook about to start the crux section of Gothic Edge (VII,7) – a new link up on Number Three Gully Buttress on Ben Nevis. The crux section up the arête left of the Gargoyle Cracks involved a long run out above a Pecker, so the grade should be treated with a healthy degree of caution. (Photo Peter Graham)
Some late news just in – John Crook and Peter Graham climbed a significant new pitch on Number Three Gully Buttress on Ben Nevis on December 31.
“We started up the Direct Start to Gargoyle Wall, which without much ice provided a good VI,7 pitch,” Peter explained. “We then followed Gargoyle Wall to the corner below the Gargoyle Cracks. From here, we climbed what we believe to be a new pitch up the arête left of the Gargoyle Cracks and finished up the Rok Finish to Hobgoblin. This provided an excellent direct route up the buttress at around VII,7 that we named Gothic Edge.”
There have been a number of link ups of existing routes climbed on the right wall of Number Three Gully Buttress in recent years, and one or two have even been reported as new routes, but they essentially climb previously travelled ground. Gothic Edge is significant in that the pitch up the arête left of the Gargoyle Wall Cracks is completely independent and a fine addition to this popular high altitude mixed cliff.
