Ken Applegate belaying below the line of Cartouche (IV,4) on Stob Coire nam Beith in Glen Coe. This new 40m pitch makes an excellent finish to classic Grade IV’s such as Central Gully and Deep-Cut Chimney on the north face of the mountain. (Photo Nick Stone)
Ken Applegate and Nick Stone had an unexpected find on Stob Coire nam Beith on February 5. They climbed an excellent and sustained 40m Grade IV ice pitch that starts towards the top of North-West Gully. The pitch takes a direct line up the obvious ice-filled groove and finishes on the upper slopes of the mountain, where the angle eases.
“I was guiding Nick on the Cold Climbs route Deep-Cut Chimney,” Ken explained. “The route was in great condition, with the crucial slabs on the left after the chimney well iced. After a further mixed pitch, we made our way up Central Gully to the point where Central Gully, and No.4 Buttress converge. Just down, and to our right, starting in North-West Gully was a very inviting and continuous pitch of ice, which neither of us could resist. It was a very fitting finish to a fantastic day!”
A nice looking pitch. I’d seen this a couple of years ago and thought it looked a fun finish to Deep Cut. Looks like to was in great condition – nice one, and I bet Nick was chuffed too!
That looks familiar as may have soloed it many years ago when I did Deep Cut Chimney, North West Chimney and Central Gully.
Just can’t be sure! ;o(
Well done lads.