Does Anyone Recognise This Route?

Jeff Lowe on the probable first ascent of a new climb somewhere on Ben Nevis in March 1976. His partner Henry Barber is thinks that it may be in the Green Gully area, but is definitely somewhere between Point Five and Number Four Gully. (Photo Henry Barber)

Jeff Lowe on the probable first ascent of a new climb somewhere on Ben Nevis in March 1976. His partner Henry Barber is thinks that it may be in the Green Gully area, but is definitely somewhere between Point Five and Number Four Gully. (Photo Henry Barber)

Nick Bullock is ice climbing in New England at the moment, and recently spent the evening with climbing legend Henry Barber.

Henry climbed a probable new route on Ben Nevis with Jeff Lowe in March 1976, and passed on the above photo to Nick in the hope that he could identify the route. Nick wasn’t sure, so he sent it to me.

To be honest, I’m not sure either, but it does remind me a little of the undercut start to Clough’s Chimney on Comb Gully Buttress. (Ian Clough climbed the top part of the chimney in January 1960, but the first ascent of this lower section is credited to Godefroy Perroux from sometime in the 1990s).

If anyone has any other ideas, please let me know.

“It was a very cool climb on a very cool crag,” Henry remembers. “As you know Jeff isn’t doing very well so I hope to send him a pic or two and boost his spirits.”

About Simon Richardson

Simon Richardson is a passionate Scottish winter climber
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7 Responses to Does Anyone Recognise This Route?

  1. Ian Parnell says:

    It’s not the deep groove you and Iain climbed left of Arthur?

    • Simon Richardson says:

      Thanks Ian, I’m pretty sure it’s not The Survivor. That downward pointing tongue of rock on the left is quite distinctive. I’m thinking it may be the undercut start to Clough’s Chimey which I remember as being tricky and quite bold, but can’t can’t recall the exact detail. Perhaps Robin or Rosie can remember?

  2. It’s a long time since I did Clough’s Chimney but I don’t remember it looking like that.

  3. Michael Barnard says:

    Definitely Clough’s Chimney.

  4. Tony Moody says:

    Not 100%, but I think it is Winter Chimney. Taken about where the climber is in this photo (although the one with Jeff Lowe is more zoomed in): http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=27651

    • Simon Richardson says:

      Good suggestion Tony, but I’m prety sure it’s Clough’s Chimney – see the follow up post. Good thinking though – it is reminiscent of Winter Chimney!

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