Ian Parnell and Tim Emmett had a great day on Stob Coire nan Lochan on March 3 when they climbed the first three pitches of Satyr (IX,9) before finishing up the final pitch of Central Grooves.
“There was a nice long weep of thin ice falling down the first pitch,” Ian told me. “This attracted us to the route on the day and also it was the most wintry-looking of the harder routes.
Not having a description for the winter ascent we ended up splitting the first pitch at the flake ledge at 20m. Tim led the first bold bit and then I led the better protected Tech 9 crux ‘traverse’ taking a short fall before lowering and starting again.
Then Tim led the linking pitch. I led the offwidth pinnacle-flake, and then with the top pitch holding little snow, I thought best that we finish up the final bit of Central Grooves. Having read up since I’ve got back, I see that the top pitch of Satyr is obviously a tough one with a fall taken on the first ascent – but it was pointless dry tooling it. So we obviously don’t claim an ascent of Satyr, but it was a superb day out with some very interesting and varied climbing and an incredible sunset!”