Ian Dempster leading Right-Angled Gully, Direct Finish (V,6) on The Cobbler. This route is a good option when the turf is not properly frozen as the climbing is on snowed-up rock. This atmospheric photo was taken by Andy Bain, who had just made a solo ascent of Maclay’s Crack (III,4).
On January 13, Stuart McFarlane and Ian Dempster made a rare repeat (possible second ascent) of Right-Angled Groove on The Cobbler. (This difficult V,7 was first climbed in winter by the highly effective team of Rab Anderson and Rob Milne in February 1996). Stuart and Ian then descended down the ramp of Right-Angled Gully and climbed its Direct Finish (V,6).
“In my many visits here, I’ve never seen Right-Angled Groove hoared,” Stuart told me. “Even the day I had originally tried Echo Crack this groove/overhanging arête was dry. The Right-Angled Link Up provided a sustained and interesting climb in these ‘fantastic’ conditions of powder, hoar and (surprisingly) well frozen turf!”
Raeburn and Tough made the first winter ascent of Right-Angled Gully (IV,5) way back in 1896 – hard men! The winter Direct Finish is reputed to have been climbed by Hamish Hamilton in the 1930s, although the guidebook credits the first winter ascent to Chris Cartwright and myself in December 1990. I have fond memories of our climb – one of the first in a long and fruitful partnership.
