A Ghost of a Chance

Joel Paterson on the crux tower of Ghost Dance (V,6), on The Cathedral, Lochnagar. This route has enjoyed a fair degree of popularity recently, and together with Quick Dash Crack (IV,5) and Magic Pillar (IV,5), it is one of the most climbed mixed routes in the Southern Sector. (Photo Craig Lamb)

On Wednesday April 4, Craig Lamb and Joel Paterson took advantage of the recent icy blast with a well-timed visit to the Southern Sector on Lochnagar. After the recent warm temperatures (the week before folk were rock climbing on Dubh Loch) conditions were highly uncertain, but as always in Scottish winter climbing it always pays to go and have a look.

“It was slow going into the corrie with deep drifts to contend with,” Craig told me. “It took four hours from the car to start of climb, but we arrived at the Meikle Pap, thankful at the sight of well plastered cliffs. We elected for a shot at your route Ghost Dance, after speaking to you in Cotswold Aberdeen about the route being easier than it looked. The crux tower up top didn’t disappoint; good steep climbing, good situation and the promised good hooks with a fitting finish on top of the pinnacle. Perseverance was the name of the game on Wednesday, as the clouds which lingered all day eventually broke around 7pm, leaving us with a fantastic moonlight walk back down to Glen Muick.”

About Simon Richardson

Simon Richardson is a passionate Scottish winter climber
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