Hogwart’s Express – Second Ascent

Stuart McFarlane on the fourth pitch of Hogwart’s Express on The Brack on Arrochar. This steep mixed route climbs the right edge of the slabby wall right of Resolution, and finishes up the final pitches of the summer route Mainline. The final section, as shown in the photo is also the crux pitch of last year’s addition The Elephant Train. (Photo Stuart Burns)

On Sunday December 19, Stuart Burns, Erick Baillot and Stuart McFarlane, repeated Hogwart’s Express (VI,7) on The Brack. This fine looking route was first climbed by Andy Clarke and Frank Yeoman in January 2001, and is a very steep line taking the right edge of the Resolution wall, finishing via the top fault of the summer E2 Mainline.

“The route was not adorned with secure protection on the first three pitches,” Stuart M told me. “It was more VI than 7!”

Stuart B (‘Burnsie’) agrees. “I thought it was VI,6 and high in the danger grade and low in the technical grade. Andy Clarke gave it VI,7 on the first ascent. I suspect we had more ice on our ascent, which had been forming from the snow melt – helpful for teetering up slabs when it sticks on, but not so helpful if you can’t find any gear!”

Other Arrochar news is the third ascent of Direct, Direct (VII,9) on The Cobbler, by Andy Sharpe and Garth. They made a well-timed ascent, climbing this Arrochar test-piece on Saturday December 10 under a good covering of hoar frost.

About Simon Richardson

Simon Richardson is a passionate Scottish winter climber
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1 Response to Hogwart’s Express – Second Ascent

  1. Kayleigh says:

    Hi I am trying to contact a few climbers that my father climbed with back in the 70/80’s,and I was wondering if you could help me,as you may know them(long shot I know). Firstly my fathers name is Stephen Evans from Cardiff and he’s trying to find Andy Sharp,Pete Lewis,Gary Lewis,Lyndsey Foulkes and Sandy Wilkie.I’m sorry for contaccting yourself but I know this would mean a great deal to my father and after searching the names for hours and hours with no joy I suppose I am clutching at straws now.Any help would be greatfully apprecciated.Many Thanks.K.Evans

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