Greg Boswell’s Magnificent Run of Routes

Greg Boswell on an early repeat of The Duel (IX,9) in Stob Coire nan Lochan. This ascent with Steve Lynch was Greg's sixth Grade VIII or IX in the last three weeks. (Photo Greg Boswell Collection)

Nineteen-year old Greg Boswell has had a remarkable run of routes over the last 20 days or so. Together with his astonishing  first ascent of To Those Who Wait (IX,9) on Ben Nevis, Greg has ticked off some of the most sought after winter routes in Scotland including Unicorn (VIII,8),  Sioux Wall (VIII,8), Blood, Sweat and Frozen Tears (VIII,8) and The Secret (VIII,9). On Saturday January 8, Greg added The Duel (IX,9) on Stob Coire nan Lochan to his list. This is one of the most remarkable runs of high standard winter climbing ever seen in Scotland.

For a bit of fun, I asked Greg if he could rate four of these routes in order of difficulty. Wisely, Greg said that this was very hard as they are all very different types of routes, but he had a go.

“In order of difficulty with 1 being the hardest and 4 being the easiest…

1-The Duel was the boldest and had the thinnest, most technical climbing. So I would say it was the hardest. (Not totally desperate though)

2-The Secret was very well protected, once you have gained the crack. But it still had some hard climbing so I would say it was second. (A little sustained)

3-Unicorn had a bold crux but wasn’t as hard or sustained as The Secret after the crux. (A little bold in the first part but safe after first quarter)

4-BSFT was sustained but good hooks and very safe. (Some steep ground is covered but all the axe placements are good and its pretty safe)

None of the above routes are even close to the difficulty of To Those Who Wait!”

About Simon Richardson

Simon Richardson is a passionate Scottish winter climber
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6 Responses to Greg Boswell’s Magnificent Run of Routes

  1. Andy Nisbet says:

    BSFT was given VII,8 originally. I wonder if that was correct.

  2. Ian Parnell says:

    Yes I think so, Andy. Sundance and Bruised Violet seem a good notch up from Blood sweat… I would have thought most however would confirm the 4 star rating.

  3. Erik Brunskill says:

    throw in the most important addition to Arrochar in many moons and an astonishing season so far for one so young, with young Tony Stone and Greg the future is very bright for scottish winter.

    By the way, I could need new contact lenses, but Im pretty sure that is the most plastered photos I have seen of someone on the duel, add a grade Greg!

  4. Ian Parnell says:

    Standard winter nick Erik a bit like this http://ianparnellphotography.blogspot.com/search/label/The%20Duel
    Now there may have been a few less wintery visits? 😉

  5. Erik Brunskill says:

    ahh ok Ian, never saw your photos until now! add a grade as well then! 🙂

  6. Andy Nisbet says:

    I do think that Mistral is the same overall grade as BSFT, but only one hard pitch albeit a very sustained one. Which might be why folk are having a hard time on it, expecting it to be easier.

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